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1/10 Scale Electric Rally/Touring Car:

Carisma M40S Chassis (Radio Controlled Model Review)


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History + Information (and How To Set-up Tips):


  Introduced by Carisma RC circa 2005, the 4WD M40S Chassis, came RTR with a motor, ESC, battery, charger and 2.4Ghz radio system.

  A number of Touring Car and Rally Car bodyshell options were available, including: Audi Rallye Quattro - # CA 69768, Volkswagen Race Touareg 3 - # CA 69968, Subaru WRX STi NBR - # CA 71468, Subaru Impreza WRC - # CA 68668, Volkswagen Golf - # CA 70068, Subaru Impreza Wrc 2000 - # CA 74068, Mitsubishi Lancer Evo4 - # CA 74168, Subaru Impreza Wrc 2006 - # CA 74268, Mercedes-Amg Dtm (#6 White) - # CA 74368 (#6 White) - # CA 74468 (#20 Red), Audi RS5 DTM - # CA 74568 (#8 Red) - # CA 74668 (#15 Silver), BMW M4 DTM - # CA 74768 (#9 Black) - # CA 74868 (#10 White) and many more.

  The model is shaft driven, on a molded plastic double deck chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts and a full set of ball bearings.

Carisma M40S Chassis
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  To race the Carisma M40S, it requires a high level of tuning for improved stability when cornering, to keep it on the track and give you more grip under acceleration. Even the smallest change in your cars settings can make a Big difference. Our simple to follow instruction chart will show how to attain the best Set-up for your personal requirements.

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★ Carisma M40S Series ★
Carisma M40S Series

★ Carisma M40S Chassis ★
Carisma M40S Chassis

★ Carisma M40S Chassis ★
Carisma M40S Chassis

★ Carisma M40S Chassis ★
Carisma M40S Chassis


Buying a Used Carisma M40S
Touring Car (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Carisma M40S Electric Touring Car, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the road.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Carisma website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Carisma Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Carisma models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Carisma M40S is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your M40S model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your M40S Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Touring Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the road, if you intend to race your Touring Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The M40S steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Carisma M40S is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Carisma Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your M40S model and good racing.


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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide


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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Getting into RC

   When I first got into racing RC, all I had was a three year old clapped out Tamiya Boomerang, a silver can stock motor, three step mechanical speed controller, two 1400Mah stick batteries and basic Acoms stick transmitter.

   I was the newbie and most of the guys I was racing against had all the latest models, modified motors, matched batteries and top spec radio equipment, but I was still beating them easily. Why? The answer is simple: Practice. I had been driving that old car around my back yard and in the local park for almost three years. The others bought their cars only a few weeks or months earlier and had pestered their parents for the latest and most expensive car, motor etc, but did not have the experience to be able to control it. While I was steadily trundling around the track, they were crashing out on every other corner, popping ball joints, breaking wishbones and generally causing havoc.

   The moral of this story is all too obvious and anyone starting up in RC who wants to race please take note. You don't need the best equipment to win races. You can start with a cheap basic kit and with a lot of practice in some wide open spaces where you will not cause any damage, learn how to control your car. Remember don't try to run before you can walk. Stick with that silver can motor for a while and upgrade to something a little faster only when you have mastered the old one. You don't even have to buy new. If you go down to your local RC Club, there are always cars for sale. They may be battered and bruised, but if you get an old brushed silver can motor, a cheap 5A ESC, a couple of Nicad, or Nimh batteries, charger and simple radio gear, that is all you need to start practising and after a while, winning races.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

On Road Tires for Tarmac


   Modern day RC Model Rubber Tires for tarmac racing, generally come in wide or narrow format and in three compounds Soft, Medium and Hard, each compound corresponding to different track temperatures.

   Inserts also come as soft, medium and hard and are necessary to provide subtle but potentially race winning differences in grip, dependant on the grain structure of the tarmac used in the construction of the track.

   Club racers probably need just the three compound sets of tires, wide or narrow and with one particular type of insert. But if you are to venture into the world of National and International racing, you will need up to eighteen complete sets, to cover all the possible combinations of track condition, plus at least one set of wet weather tires.

   Determining the best tires and inserts for any given track on any given day can only come with experience, so on a new track to you, always ask the locals for their input. They should at least give you some idea what insert may be the best to use with your tire. The rest is based on the track temperature and the tarmac type.

   Your practice run will prove if the information you glean is correct and once you feel satisfied with your tire choice, it is at that point you can begin to fine tune your set up with our step by step guide, linked at the end of this article.

Additives for Rubber Tires


   There are a huge number of so called Tire additives out there for on-road slick tires and the majority do improve grip on most grades of outdoor tarmac constructed tracks, as well as indoor carpet tracks.

   The way additives work is to soften and make the rubber slightly tacky or sticky. The effect does wear off as the race goes on, but can give you the 5% you need to get your nose in front. The only disadvantage is that the effective life of the tires is reduced a price you have to pay if you have the need for speed.

   In the UK, Wintergreen based additives have been banned for a number of years, because of their tendency to adversely affect the tarmac on outdoor tracks, but they are still allowed in a number of other countries, so if you intend to race internationally, check the regulations of that country regarding additives beforehand.

   Also check out my article for On-Road Carpet Tires.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










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