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1/14 Scale Electric Rally/Touring Car:

Carisma GT14 Pro (Radio Controlled Model Review)


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History + Information (and How To Set-up Tips):


  Introduced by Carisma RC circa 2009, the 4WD GT14 Pro Version One Chassis - # CA 54268 - was available ARR, requiring a motor, ESC, battery, charger and radio system to complete.

  The model is shaft driven, on a carbon double deck chassis, with ball differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers (alloy), slipper clutch, universal joint drive-shafts, alloy turnbuckles, alloy motor mount, foam tires and a full set of ball bearings.

Carisma GT14 Pro
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  To race the Carisma GT14 Pro, it requires a high level of tuning for improved stability when cornering, to keep it on the track and give you more grip under acceleration. Even the smallest change in your cars settings can make a Big difference. Our simple to follow instruction chart will show how to attain the best Set-up for your personal requirements.

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★ Carisma GT14 Pro ★
Carisma GT14 Pro

★ Carisma GT14 Pro Chassis ★
Carisma GT14 Pro Chassis

★ Carisma GT14 Pro Chassis ★
Carisma GT14 Pro Chassis


Buying a Used Carisma GT14 Pro
Touring Car (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Carisma GT14 Pro Electric Touring Car, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the road.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Carisma website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Carisma Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Carisma models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Carisma GT14 Pro is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your GT14 Pro model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your GT14 Pro Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Touring Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the road, if you intend to race your Touring Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The GT14 Pro steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Carisma GT14 Pro is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Carisma Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your GT14 Pro model and good racing.


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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide


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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Battery Connectors

   Over the years I have been racing radio controlled model cars of all descriptions, I have tried a number of different connectors for my batteries.

   My first car was a Tamiya Boomerang and of course the batteries I used all had the standard Tamiya connectors, which were fine with the kit supplied 27T silver can electric motor, but I soon discovered their problem when I installed my first Modified motor. The high current demands of the motor created so much heat, the plastic surround of the connectors melted and fused together. No matter how I tried they could not be disconnected. My only option was to cut the wires.

   From there I moved over to Corally connectors, commonly referred to by many now as Bullet connectors. Comprising of a short length of 4mm gold plated tube at one end and what looks like what we used to call a Chinese lantern fitting that slotted inside the tube, also gold plated. Although they were highly efficient and reasonably easy to install and use, I never really took to this type of connector, I think it was the fact that there was always the possibility of the positive and negative being connected wrongly in poor light and also that if positioned side by side, each connector could work loose and become exposed, leaving the possibility of a short circuit.

   Then I remember buying some second hand batteries at an area meeting one day, they had these little red block connectors I soon learned were "Deans" rated at around 40 Amps. They looked like just what I was looking for so I gave them a try. They worked fine, although I didn't like the shortness of the part to be soldered. However, for about two years they were my connector of choice, until I stumbled across an advert in the "Radio Race Car International" magazine.

   The latest development in connectors at that time were named "Power Pole", made by a company called Anderson and were rated at 45 Amps. The design uses a small tube, plated with silver, with a short extending lip, that slots over the exposed wire and can either be crimped onto the wire or soldered. For safety and efficiency, I prefer the latter. To complete the connector, a colour coded plastic cover fits neatly over it.

   It was way back in 1995 I first used Power-Pole and to this day they are still the most efficient I have come across and never overheat.

   So, if you are looking for a connector to change over to, that has a high current rating and won't cause you any overheating problems "Anderson Power Pole" is the one I recommend.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Tires for RC Models

How to Mount Rubber Tires onto Wheels/Rims.


   Before mounting your Tires, I would recommend talking to the more experienced racers at your local club, concerning what inserts they use. Even the top level racers rely on a bit of local knowledge on tracks they have never raced before.

   Once you have decided what inserts to use, position them inside the Tires ready to go onto the rims.

   You will need strong fingers to pull and maneuver the Tires over the rims, so you may need the help of an adult. Do NOT use metal Tire levers or a spoon, as they can not only damage the fragile plastic rims, but can also put small tears in the rubber, that could cause problems later.

   The technique I recommend, is to first of all hook the Tire on one side of the rim, then using the thumb and forefinger, grip the Tire and pull it upwards and over into position around the middle of the wheel, then over to its final position on the far side so that the beading is seated in the spigot. Next, position the near side beading in the opposite spigot, making sure the sponge (or rubber) insert is not trapped and positioned centrally.

How to Glue Rubber Tires onto Wheels/Rims.


   You have the option of either gluing or not gluing your tires in position. If the track you race at is not too grippy you can sometimes get away with it, but on high grip tracks, there is always the possibility the tire might pull away from the rim and ruin your race .... My recommendation is to glue them.

   Superglue is the thing to use. To do this, carefully pull the beading out of its seating, put on a spot of glue, then quickly push it back down. repeat this at least 6 times around each side of the wheel.

   Superglue can be dangerous, so this is best done by an adult.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










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