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RCScrapyard Radio Controlled Models
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1/12 Scale Electric On-Road Car:

AYK Roadrunner V (Radio Controlled Model Review)


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History + Information (and How To Set-up Tips):


  Introduced by AYK Aoyagi Metals Co circa 1987, the 2WD Roadrunner V was made specifically for export and as the name implies, was the fifth generation of Roadrunner, following the NX101, NX102, J2 and 86J.

  The model is similar in design to the 86J, with an FRP plate chassis, three dampers, GX1200 differential, adjustable caster angle and magnesium motor-pod.

AYK Roadrunner V
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  To race the AYK Roadrunner V, it requires a high level of tuning for improved stability when cornering, to keep it on the track and give you more grip under acceleration. Even the smallest change in your cars settings can make a Big difference. Our simple to follow instruction chart will show how to attain the best Set-up for your personal requirements.

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Items For Sale:






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★ AYK Roadrunner V Chassis ★
AYK Roadrunner V Chassis

★ AYK Roadrunner V Chassis ★
AYK Roadrunner V Chassis

★ AYK GX1200 ★
AYK GX1200 Differential


General Information and Advice

   For those starting in Radio Controlled Racing, here are a few Hints and Tips: Firstly, buy a Kit not an RTR. That way, if something breaks you will have some idea how to fix it.

   Radio Controlled Model Cars are very fragile and easily broken. The main parts to protect are the Front Wishbones, Suspension Shock Towers, Dampers, Hub Carriers, Kingpins, Uprights and Toe in Blocks, so make sure you have a good strong front bumper and Lexan or Hard Plastic Body Shell and if available for your model, a protective under tray, to prevent grit and dust getting into any moving parts.

   The Steering Servo is also a weakness in high speed crash situations, so get yourself some good strong Servo Mount and Servo Saver. Also I would recommend Titanium Shafts, Turnbuckles, Tie Rods and pivot/steering shafts and if available for your model, lightweight Titanium Drive shafts, dog bones and CVD (Constant Velocity Drives). The standard steel types are far too easily bent.

   Gearing is another problem area on RC model cars. Head on collisions can easily break off gear teeth on Nylon/Plastic Spur Gears and even Bevel Gears inside the Gearbox. Heavy impacts can also loosen nuts and self taping screws that hold the Motor in Position, allowing the Pinion Gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops of the teeth on your Spur Gear. To avoid this to some degree, fit locking nuts and a new motor mount from time to time, so the self taping screws that hold the motor in position have less chance to come loose.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Radio Controlled model car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector breaking free could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

   Many New car kits come with Nylon and Sintered Brass Ring type bearings. My advice is to discard these before initial installation and buy a good Hop-up set of Shielded Steel Ball Bearings. Or if you are serious about your racing, Teflon or Ceramic Bearings.

   One final piece of advice about the Setup of your Car. Keep the Centre of Gravity as low as possible. Ride Height is all important. For On Road Drift/Touring cars the Ride Height should be no more than 5mm, for Buggys, Trucks, Truggys and Monster Trucks, as low as possible depending on the track conditions. If Body Roll is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of Stabilizers, Anti roll or Sway Bars, stiffer Tuning Springs and, or thicker Silicon Oil in the Dampers. Also find somewhere to mount the Transponder as low in the Chassis as possible.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Emergency Plastic Part Repairs

   It always happens when you least expect it. You are racing hard; and suddenly some idiot decides to side swipe you' and break your front wishbone. Even though you may carry spare parts for just about everything on your car, it always seems to be the same part that breaks and although you made a mental note the last time it happened to get a replacement you soon realise those mental notes were not worth the paper they are written on.

   So there you are, in the middle of nowhere with no spares. You ask around and no one has anything like your car, least of all parts for it and the closest model shop is 100 miles away. What are you supposed to do now?

   Some kind of repair is your only option.

   The one thing quite a few people think of first is superglue, but that kind of repair won't even get you around the first corner.

   What you need is something much stronger and the only way you can do that requires a good quality soldering iron, the plastic sprue (the bit left over when you remove all the parts for your car) or another broken part made from the same plastic.

   Using the largest tip you have, set the temperature so that it melts the plastic, but does not vaporise it. Place your broken part on a flat surface that will not be affected by the heat from the iron. I use the glass plate I have for setting the wheel camber of my model. Next, cut a piece of scrap plastic long enough for you to be able to hold on one end, as you work with it and place it over the break. At the point directly over the break, carefully melt the scrap plastic until it is around one millimetre above the break.

   Gently slide the iron sideways, depositing the scrap plastic about five millimetres either side and around the break. At each end of the fix, try to meld the scrap and broken part plastic. Picking up the broken part, continue the melding around each side of the break, then place it down the flat surface and repeat the process on the other side.

   When satisfied, switch off the iron and allow the plastic to cool. Using a modelling knife, carefully, cut away any excess plastic, but not too much.

   With a little practice a fix like this can be almost as strong as a new part and can save you a whole lot of anguish.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

On Road Indoor Carpet Tires


   Some indoor carpet tracks do not allow you to use anything but foam tires. The reason being the wear on the carpet some soft rubber tires, such as Proline Hawgs and Schumacher pin-spikes can create. But on some tracks, where a combination of carpet and wooden board is used, rubber tires may be allowed.

Sponge or Foam Tires


   Basically there are three foam compounds available: Soft, Medium and Hard.
   Soft foam tires will normally provide the best grip on most carpeted tracks, but wear faster than other compound tires. They also wear unevenly. Cornering always puts more stress on the outside wheels, so naturally they will wear more. Therefore, in an effort to even out that wear, the wheels must be swapped over from side to side after each race and re-trued before the next race meeting.

   Incidentally, if you are looking to learn or hone your drifting skills, try a set of hard compound foam tires. They may not be the best tires to win races on a carpet track, but the fun level is brilliant.

Foam Tire Additive


   Most indoor carpet tracks allow some kinds of tire additive, but not all. One guy at our local track, used to dip his foam tires in a glass of light ale.

   Although this form of additive may seem a little odd, there are a high number of weird and wonderful concoctions used by racers in the RC world and just as many available commercially, most of which will improve grip if that is what you want.

Rubber Tires for Indoor Tracks


   Unlike outdoor racing where track temperature comes into play, indoor tire choice is comparatively easy.

   On tracks where rubber tires are allowed, with a combination of carpet, board or other surface type, the choice of tire is generally determined by the areas of track where the grip is least. Local knowledge on these tracks is always helpful as a starting point, but don't always accept any suggestions as being the best. Trial and error, on your practice laps, before racing begins in earnest, can often highlight a different tire more suited to your particular driving style.

   Also check out my article for On-Road Tarmac Tires.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










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