Team Associated Enduro Trail Truck, Builder's Kit - 40102 - Radio Controlled Model

   Released by Team Associated in 2019, the Enduro Trail Truck, Builder's Kit - # 40102 - came with the new Stealth X gearbox, providing three levels of front and rear independent adjustment options: 27T and 53T gears (overdrives the front end 5.7%), 28T and 52T gears (provides a one-to-one drive ratio front to rear), and 26T and 54T gears (overdrives the front end 11.83%). Three wheelbase options can also be set - 313mm, 305mm and 299mm.

   This bare chassis kit requires a Motor, ESC, Battery, Charger, Radio System, Wheels and Tires to complete.

   An Enduro RC IFS Conversion Kit - # 40103 - was introduced in 2020, as a bolt-on Independent Front Suspension (IFS) system for the Element RC Enduro chassis.

   The 4WD Enduro is shaft driven, on a steel ladder frame chassis, with coil spring over oil filled dampers, 3-piece telescopic drive-shafts with an extruded aluminum center section, universal joint front drive axles, Stealth X gearbox and a full set of ball bearings.

Model Version:

• #40102 Enduro Trail Truck, Builder's Kit

Features:

• Behind-the-axle (BTA) steering
• Aluminum steering plates
• Integrated servo winch mount
• Threaded aluminum shock bodies
• CMS (Chassis Mounted Servo)
• Adjustable front track bar
• Universal front drive axles
• Stamped steel frame rails
• Enclosed water-resistant receiver box
• 12mm wheel hexes
• Adjustable front and rear bumper mounts
• Adjustable width rock sliders
• Two battery boxes: one standard and one shorty
• Aluminum motor plate
• Adjustable body posts
• Optimized ball cups for more fluid axle articulation
• Adjustable rear shock mount positions
• Telescopic driveshafts front and rear
• Extruded aluminum driveshaft splines
• One-piece rear axle design
• Splined front axle with adjustable caster
• Machined input pinion gear
• Metal ring gear
• Machined steel top shaft
• Heavy duty 5mm diameter steel links
• Metal ball bearings included

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

Dampers

   Dampers, Shock Absorbers, Shocks - call them what you will, they are one of the least understood, but most important tools you have for adjusting the handling characteristics of your RC model.

   In this article, I will endeavour to explain just what you can achieve by making simple tweaks to your shocks, and how these tweaks can keep you ahead of your opposition on the track.

   In dictionary terms "Damper" is described as - "A mechanical device to absorb the energy of sudden impulses." - In plain language, they stop your car from bouncing all over the track.

   Basically what you have is a small amount of silicone oil contained in a sealed cylinder. Through the centre of that cylinder is a metal rod, and on the end of that rod, a piston with a number of small holes in it. Pulling, or pushing the rod in and out of the cylinder, your will notice a certain amount of resistance as the oil is forced through the holes in the piston.

Gearing to Win

   Just because you have the latest model, the best available batteries, the most powerful electric motor or nitro engine, doesn't mean you will go out and win everything in sight. The fastest car on the track is rarely the one that wins, it's the one that can accelerate out of corners under control, and remains consistent and efficient from the start to the end of a race.

   In days gone bye, all you had to consider was the number of mili amp hours (Mah) in your battery, and the current draw of your high powered motor. Gearing for a five minute race was a balancing act. But with the development of the new high capacity batteries, brushless motors and smart ESC, all that changed. Now, gearing is more of a matter of what suits your driving style and how quick your reflexes are on the sticks, the trigger and steer wheel of your transmitter. So, where do you start?

   At your local club track, you quickly find the right combination and set-up for your car by talking to the more experienced members. After a while, as your knowledge grows, tweaking a few things here and there can give you that small edge to keep you competitive. So, it follows that on tracks you don't know, you should talk to the locals there, who may be racing a similar model to your own, and adjust your set-up to suit.

   Gearing correctly for any given track is absolutely crucial if your car is to be competitive.

   Too high a gearing may get you in front at the start of a race, but as your motor begins to overheat and lose efficiency, that initial advantage will soon be lost.