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1/10 Scale Electric Buggy:

Arrma ADX-10 BLX (Radio Controlled Model Review)


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History + Information (and How To Set-up Tips):


  Introduced by ARRMA RC circa 2013, the 2WD ADX-10 BLX Race Buggy, was essentially the Brushless version of the original ADX-10 and came RTR with a BLX 3600kv brushless motor, waterproof ESC, ATX100 2.4Ghz radio system, Nimh Battery and charger.

  One painted bodyshell was available: # AR102559 / AR102549 - Red.

  The model is gear driven, on a vertical alloy plate and molded composite chassis, with a gear type differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers, slipper clutch, dogbone drive-shafts and ball bearings.

  This model was discontinued in 2015.

Arrma ADX-10 BLX
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  To race the Arrma ADX-10 BLX, it requires a high level of tuning for improved stability when cornering, to keep it on the track and give you more grip under acceleration. Even the smallest change in your cars settings can make a Big difference. Our simple to follow instruction chart will show how to attain the best Set-up for your personal requirements.

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★ Arrma ADX-10 BLX Chassis ★
Arrma ADX-10 BLX Chassis

★ Arrma ADX-10 BLX Chassis ★
Arrma ADX-10 BLX Chassis

★ Arrma ADX-10 BLX Chassis ★
Arrma ADX-10 BLX Chassis

★ Arrma ADX-10 BLX Chassis ★
Arrma ADX-10 BLX Chassis


Buying a Used Arrma ADX-10 BLX
Buggy (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Arrma ADX-10 BLX Electric Buggy, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the ARRMA website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Buggy you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Arrma Buggy, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Arrma models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Arrma ADX-10 BLX is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your ADX-10 BLX model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your ADX-10 BLX Buggy model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Buggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Buggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Buggy RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The ADX-10 BLX steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Arrma ADX-10 BLX is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Arrma Buggy comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your ADX-10 BLX model and good racing.


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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide


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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Aerodynamics

   It is commonly understood that weight improves traction. If you have ever seen TV coverage of any kind of full size motor racing, you will have heard the terms, aerodynamics and down force. Well, they also relate to small scale models in exactly the same manner.

   Bodyshell aerodynamics for RC model cars is a science in itself and the wrong one could loose you the race. Back in my day the shell to have for 1:10 on-road, was the Alfa Romeo 156. The bodyshell that came with my Schumacher SST kit was a Peugeot 406, but that soon went into the bin when I got the Alfa. The difference in performance was amazing, but it wasn't a patch on the Frewer, Ferrari F50. The rear wing on that bodyshell was phenomenal; it was the fastest thing on the track, great for club racing, but to my cost, illegal for top level racing. Regulations stipulate that the rear wing should be no higher than the roof of the car, the Frewer wing was way too high, so another one was relegated to the "do not use" box.

   Off-Road models also benefit from aerodynamics and downforce, but to a lesser extent than on road models. The rear wing provides good downforce for better rear end traction and is discussed in detail in one of my other articles.

   Way back in 1994, a company named Tenth Technology produced a 1:10 buggy called the Predator. The design of the car was innovative to say the least, with inboard laydown cantilever operated shocks and extra low, almost flat bodyshell. The most eye-catching element of the design was the wings. Not only did it have a nice large wing on the rear, it also had one of a similar size at the front. It was one of those cars where the idea seemed good and the car was fast very fast and did once win the British Championship. The problem was its fragility. Any small knock damaging the front wing, made it un-drivable.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Radio Frequencies

   After buying your first car, it won't be long before you need more than simply bashing around the back yard, or out on the street. So you will be looking around to find a club that is not too far away where you can do some serious racing.

   Before you can start racing, you will need at least three different sets of crystal frequencies. The race organisers will note down all your available frequencies when you register at the track and allocate one of those frequencies to you for your heat. To avoid change over problems from one heat to the next, they generally try to give you a frequency that no one in the heat before or after is using, but always check to make sure before you put your car down on the track and switch on.

   There is nothing more annoying than to be in the middle of your best qualifying race and some idiot switching on their transmitter in the pits, on your frequency. Not only could it spoil your race, but it could cost you a lot of money if at the time you are travelling at top speed along the straight, loose control and crash head on into the wall. Just imagine how you would feel.

   Now, imagine this scenario. You are at your RC meeting and you need to run your car to check out some changes you have made, either after a crash repair, to adjust the steering servo, or just fine tune your car before the next race. What do you do?

   Before you switch on anything, the first thing to do is check with race control, to make sure that none of the racers presently on the track or in the next heat are on the same frequency you want to use. The people in charge are always willing to help in these situations and if none of your three available frequencies are safe for you to use, they will often lend you some crystals, sometimes for a small fee.

   Some of the bigger meetings use a board displaying all the possible frequencies, indicating which of those frequencies are in use at that time and which are available for others to use. To claim a particular frequency you simply take a peg or marker off the board so that others wanting to check their car out can not use the same frequency as you. Before the next heat, this board is updated and any missing pegs must be accounted for. So obviously the best time to claim your frequency, is at the start of a heat and you must return it before the start of the next heat.

   So, be cautious, use the protocols at your track as they should be used and you won't make any enemies you know it makes sense.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










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