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1/10 Scale Nitro Buggy:

Acme Racing Condor (Radio Controlled Model)


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History + Information (and How To Set-up Tips):


  Introduced by Acme Racing circa 2003, the 4WD Condor Buggy Chassis was available with a number of bodyshell options, as a ready to assemble kit - # A3001 - or pre-assembled, RTR - #A3001T - with an engine (early versions .15, later .18) and radio system.

  The model is shaft driven, on an alloy plate chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts, anti-roll bars, disc brake system and bushings.

Acme Racing Condor
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  To race the Acme Condor, it requires time and patience, to tune and adjust for improvements in handling and steering ability and to get the grip you need to stay on course when manoeuvring around tight, slippery corners. A little can be a lot when it comes to changing your cars settings and our easy methodical directions will guide you to the best Set-up to help you win and keep you winning.

  Our easy to understand guide will show you how to adjust the Nitro Engine for your Condor.

  Employing a number of sensible ideas, find out how you can avoid Radio interference, and problems with your Servo, by making a few changes to the layout of your equipment in your chassis. Discover what the top drivers do to improve the efficiency of their Acme Racing Condor Bearings with a few common sense hints and tips.









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Items For Sale:






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★ Acme Racing Condor Chassis ★
Acme Racing Condor Chassis

★ Acme Racing Condor Chassis ★
Acme Racing Condor Chassis

★ Acme Racing Condor Chassis ★
Acme Racing Condor Chassis


Buying a Used Acme Racing Condor
Buggy (and What to look for)


   Buying a used Acme Condor Nitro Buggy, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Acme Racing website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Buggy you may discover can easily be fixed.

Dampers
   When you receive your used Acme Buggy, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Acme Racing models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Acme Condor is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Condor model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Condor Buggy model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Buggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Buggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Buggy RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Servo Gears
   The Condor steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Acme Condor is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Ball Bearings
   If your used Acme Buggy comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Condor model and good racing.


For More on how to Setup your Buggy, check out my Hints and Tips page.


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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.


   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.


















Hints and Tips

Choosing a Nitro Engine.

   Once you have made your choice of RC model, you need the right engine to get you where you want to be out in front.

   Touring Cars: Nitro powered Touring cars require a specific ability. Your first consideration should be the tail pipe. A number of models will take only a rear tail pipe configuration, but the majority will accept the more conventional side pipe.
   Beginners should consider something with a moderate amount of power and a rotary carburettor for easier controlled handling. For top level tarmac track racing or those with more experience, look for an engine with good low end torque that has a slide valve carburettor to give you fast acceleration out of the corners.

   Trucks and Monster Trucks: Unlike on road Touring Cars, Off Road Trucks and Monster Trucks don't need that bottom end torque, unless you like to do wheelies. So something less powerful with a rotary carburettor will provide you with the smooth acceleration and less wheel spin required for controlled dirt track racing.
   If tarmac is your thing, where grip is not a problem and you have the experience, a slide carburettor may suit your needs better. Tail pipe choice is generally a matter of preference. Most trucks will accept both side and rear configurations.

   Buggys: By far the most popular Off Road Nitro RC Models there is a wide choice of Buggys out there, many of which now come with engine included.
   Most Buggy engines use a slide valve carburettor, but if you are new to RC you may be better off trying a rotary carburettor. High low end engines with throw up plenty of dust but if you can't keep it on the track you are wasting your money. So something with less power may be better for you until you feel more confident.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Tires for RC Models

How to Mount Rubber Tires onto Wheels/Rims.


   Before mounting your Tires, I would recommend talking to the more experienced racers at your local club, concerning what inserts they use. Even the top level racers rely on a bit of local knowledge on tracks they have never raced before.

   Once you have decided what inserts to use, position them inside the Tires ready to go onto the rims.

   You will need strong fingers to pull and maneuver the Tires over the rims, so you may need the help of an adult. Do NOT use metal Tire levers or a spoon, as they can not only damage the fragile plastic rims, but can also put small tears in the rubber, that could cause problems later.

   The technique I recommend, is to first of all hook the Tire on one side of the rim, then using the thumb and forefinger, grip the Tire and pull it upwards and over into position around the middle of the wheel, then over to its final position on the far side so that the beading is seated in the spigot. Next, position the near side beading in the opposite spigot, making sure the sponge (or rubber) insert is not trapped and positioned centrally.

How to Glue Rubber Tires onto Wheels/Rims.


   You have the option of either gluing or not gluing your tires in position. If the track you race at is not too grippy you can sometimes get away with it, but on high grip tracks, there is always the possibility the tire might pull away from the rim and ruin your race .... My recommendation is to glue them.

   Superglue is the thing to use. To do this, carefully pull the beading out of its seating, put on a spot of glue, then quickly push it back down. repeat this at least 6 times around each side of the wheel.

   Superglue can be dangerous, so this is best done by an adult.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.










On/Off Road
RC Models:

Radio
Equipment:

Accessories: