Radio Controlled Models
Share RCScrapyard on Facebook
RCScrapyard Radio Controlled Models
Flags
RCScrapyard.net contains Google AdSense Ads and Amazon Affiliate links, from which we may earn commission. See our Disclosure page for more information.
bar

1/10 Scale Electric Rally Car:

Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 - Radio Controlled Model



History and Info:

   Released by Kyosho circa 1992, the Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero Rally Car - # 3038 - is of the winning car in the 1992 Paris-le Cap Rally, from Paris to Capetown, driven by H Aureal and piloted by PH Monet. The Kyosho model was based on the Lazer Alpha Buggy Chassis (3036), and came as an unassembled kit, with an unpainted clear lexan Bodyshell, a Le-Mans Stock 05 Motor, servo operated Rotary Mechanical Speed Controller and semi pneumatic Tires. A Radio System, 7.2V Battery and Charger to be purchased separately.

   The 4WD model is belt driven, on a molded plastic chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts and bushings.

   Models based on the same chassis and covered in our Kyosho Archive include: Toyota Celica Turbo 4WD - # 3037, Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - # 3038, Calsonic Skyline GT-R - # 3039, Ford Escort RS Cosworth - # 30311, and Alfa Romeo 155 V6 TI - # 30312.

Kyosho Nikon Pajero

▼ Scroll Down for More Images ▼


   To race the Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero, it calls for fine tuning to attain better steering response and improve grip when cornering so you don't slide off the side of the track. Minute changes can make huge advancements. Our easy to understand list will show you how and lead you to the optimum Set-up to put you in front of the rest on the track.








Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors















Flags
★ Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 - Box ★
Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero Box
★ Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 ★
Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038
★ Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 ★
Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038
★ Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero Chassis
★ Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero Chassis
★ Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 -Chassis
★ Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 -Chassis
★ Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 -Chassis
★ Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 -Chassis
★ Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 -Chassis
★ Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 -Chassis
★ Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 - Chassis ★
Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 -Chassis
★ Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero - 3038 ★
Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero Chassis

Buying a Used Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero
Rally Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Kyosho Mitsubishi Nikon Pajero Electric Rally Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Kyosho website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Rally Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Kyosho Rally Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Kyosho models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Kyosho Pajero is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Pajero model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Pajero Rally Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Rally Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Rally Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The Pajero steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Kyosho Pajero is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Kyosho Rally Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Pajero model and good racing.

▼ Scroll Down for More Articles and Advice ▼

Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

^ TOP ^












Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Rubber Tires for RC Models

   Rubber Tires ALWAYS should have either soft sponge or rubber inserts. They will not function as they should without them. And if you are totally serious about your racing they should be glued to the rims.

   You should also have at least three different compounds (Soft, Medium and Hard) for varying track temperatures in On Road tarmac racing Touring cars and varying pin sizes for carpet and Off Road racing Buggys and Trucks.

How to Mount Rubber Tires onto Wheels/Rims.

   Before mounting your Tires, I would recommend talking to the more experienced racers at your local club, concerning what inserts they use. Even the top level racers rely on a bit of local knowledge on tracks they have never raced before.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Radio Frequencies - be Careful be Safe

   After buying your first car, it won't be long before you need more than simply bashing around the back yard, or out on the street. So you will be looking around to find a club that is not too far away where you can do some serious racing.

   Before you can start racing, you will need at least three different sets of crystal frequencies. The race organisers will note down all your available frequencies when you register at the track and allocate one of those frequencies to you for your heat. To avoid change over problems from one heat to the next, they generally try to give you a frequency that no one in the heat before or after is using, but always check to make sure before you put your car down on the track and switch on.

   There is nothing more annoying than to be in the middle of your best qualifying race and some idiot switching on their transmitter in the pits, on your frequency. Not only could it spoil your race, but it could cost you a lot of money if at the time you are travelling at top speed along the straight, loose control and crash head on into the wall.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







RC Models:
Radio
& Motors:
Other
Accessories: