RCScrapyard ► Radio Controlled (RC) Models, Parts and Spares ► Duratrax Firehammer-MT. For Sale in The USA.

Tamiya Buggys RCScrapyard: New, used, second hand radio controlled models, parts and spares.
Established 1999
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1/5 Scale Nitro Monster Truck:

Duratrax Firehammer-MT


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How To Set-up, Hints and Tips for the Duratrax Firehammer MT:

  If you want to get all you can from your Duratrax Firehammer MT, it needs to be tuned to perfection for better stability, precise steering and provide enough grip to keep you on the track when going around tight bends at high speed. Even the smallest adjustment can change the feel of a car, and our simple to follow instructions will guide you to the best Set-up to get you to the front and keep you there.
  Our basic instructions will help you set-up and fine tune the Nitro Engine for your Firehammer MT.
  With a few simple tips, we will show you how to easily avert Radio interference, and Servo problems, by simply repositioning the receiver or using some of the latest developments. Learn how to combat friction and get more from your Duratrax Firehammer MT Bearings with a few common sense hints and tips.


★ Duratrax Firehammer MT ★
Duratrax Firehammer-MT






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USA

Duratrax Firehammer MT: For Sale in the USA

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★ Duratrax Firehammer MT: ★


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Buying a Used Duratrax Firehammer MT
Monster Truck.


   Buying a used Duratrax Firehammer MT Nitro Monster Truck, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase they can often be downloaded from the Duratrax website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Monster Truck you may discover can easily be fixed.

   When you receive your used Duratrax Monster Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for anything broken that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten. Next, for those Duratrax models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Duratrax Firehammer MT is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Firehammer MT model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Firehammer MT Monster Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Monster Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Monster Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

   Gears are a weakness on all Monster Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Monster Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

   The Firehammer MT steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Duratrax Firehammer MT is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

   If your used Duratrax Monster Truck comes with plastic and sintered brass ring type bearings, check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Firehammer MT model and good racing.


For More on how to Setup your Monster Truck, check out my Hints and Tips page.


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Hints and Tips

Wings

   When you think of the Wing or the spoiler on any RC model car, you immediately think of down-force, but which wing is best for your model and what setting should it have?

   When you first build your car, most drivers will cut out the wing supplied in the kit, put it on the car and forget about it. It's only when the new kid at your local track, starts beating you that you begin thinking about changing a few things to make your car faster, and one of the easiest changes you could make is to your wing.

   Choosing a wing for off-road can be confusing, so first of all you need to understand just what your wing can do for the way your car handles. Down-force equals traction and traction is what you need for controlled acceleration. The correct wing on your car can give you a good proportion of that down-force and if it has high side panels, it can also improve cornering and straight line stability.

   The first thing you need to consider when choosing your wing is the size. A small wing may not give as much down-force as a larger one, but it also weighs less and provides less speed restricting drag. So, if the track you will be racing on has good traction naturally and has nice long straights, a small wing may be an advantage. Large wings will obviously give you more down-force and on tracks with poor traction and short straights, will be the obvious choice. If rear end grip on cornering is also a problem, go for those high side panels as well.

   Tuning your wing angle can also improve the way it performs. A more acute angle will give you improved grip, but will also increase drag. If you go more flat with your wing, down-force is reduced, but drag is also reduced, so setting your wing angle is simply a matter of trial and error to suit your needs.

   The way the wing is mounted on your car must also be considered. If it uses a wire, it has a tendency to flex as it pushes down; this obviously flattens the angle as you speed along the straights, reducing drag, which could be good in some cases, but bad in others. If your wing is held by a rigid alloy or plastic support, the previous consideration is not a problem. Down-force is maintained as constant, but so is the drag.

   Changing and tuning things like your wing may seem futile if you are the big fish in a small pond, and winning at your local track is not a problem. But if you ever go to the bigger ponds, its considering things like this that can keep you competitive.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Ride Height

   To allow the suspension on any RC model to do its work properly it needs to settle in a position that is somewhere between it being able to react to any bumps and holes it may encounter on the track. To do this, it needs to be adjusted to somewhere in-between those limits. That position is termed the ride height and is generally measured with the car race ready, that means with the motor and battery etc installed and is the distance between the underside of the chassis and the ground.

   Simply speaking, determining ride height is dependent on the specific track conditions. For off road models the rule is simple, the bigger the bumps and the deeper the holes, the higher the ride height. On road, the closer the car is to the track, the better it will handle.

   For 1:10 Buggys I generally recommend a starting point for ride height at around 20mm. 1:10 Trucks and Truggys, 30mm upwards, depending on the wheel diameter. For On Road models, as low as possible, but normally the setting is around 5mm.

   Ride height doesn't just affect the way the car handles uneven track conditions, it also influences the way the car handles when cornering. For a stable car, body roll must be kept to a minimum, and keeping the ride height low, is by far the best and easiest way to control it.

   Before you begin to set the ride height, it is best to make sure that each pair of shocks are exactly the same length, have the same spring type and same silicone oil weight. Also, if you don't have a ride height gauge of any kind, decide what height you want set your car to and prepare some kind of slip gauge to that dimension, a book, a pen, or anything that measures to what you want. I used an old square plastic servo mount, which was exactly 5mm for my touring car. It may be low tech, but it is just as accurate as any gauge you can buy.

   To set the ride height, the race ready car must be placed on a flat surface. Slide your slip gauge under the chassis and adjust the height by adding or removing tension to the damper springs. This is done on most models by using small C shaped clips, placed over the damper, above the springs, or on a number of top of the range models, this adjustment can be made by screwing a knurled nut on each threaded damper body. As a rule if the springs are compressed by more than 25% they should be replaced by stiffer springs. The gauge should just slide under the chassis on all four corners of the chassis.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.








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