Radio Controlled Models
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RCScrapyard Radio Controlled Models
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Tamiya US Medium Tank M4A3 Sherman - 48217 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/35 Scale Electric Tank -

  Released by Tamiya on September 10, 2022, the M4A3 Sherman - US Medium Tank - # 48217 - comes with a 4-channel TTU-10 transmitter, and MC-07 control unit.

  The kit includes pre-assembled gearboxes and turret rotation unit for ease of assembly. Forward/reverse running, left/right turning, sharp turning and pivoting, as well as turret rotation and main gun elevation/depression can be controlled.

Tamiya US Medium Tank M4A3 Sherman - # 48217

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  With nearly 50,000 units produced, the M4A3 Sherman is a byword for longevity and this 75mm gun-toting tank was one of the keys to the Allied triumph in WWII. It was powered by a V8 gasoline engine and featured a welded hull. The Sherman can roughly be divided into early (from June 1942) and late (from February 1944) production variants, the late production Shermans being recognizable by their single-piece frontal armor, commander's cupola and loader's hatch, plus wet ammo storage. They served both in Europe after the Normandy landings and in the Pacific Theater as the Allies ground toward victory.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya US Medium Tank M4A3 Sherman - # 48217
Tamiya US Medium Tank M4A3 Sherman
Tamiya US Medium Tank M4A3 Sherman - # 48217
Tamiya US Medium Tank M4A3 Sherman
Tamiya US Medium Tank M4A3 Sherman - # 48217
Tamiya US Medium Tank M4A3 Sherman
Tamiya US Medium Tank M4A3 Sherman - # 48217
Tamiya US Medium Tank M4A3 Sherman
Tamiya US Medium Tank M4A3 Sherman - # 48217
Tamiya US Medium Tank M4A3 Sherman
Tamiya US Medium Tank M4A3 Sherman - # 48217
Tamiya US Medium Tank M4A3 Sherman
Tamiya US Medium Tank M4A3 Sherman - # 48217
Tamiya US Medium Tank M4A3 Sherman

Hints, Tips and Information

How to avoid Radio Interference

1/  The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)

2/  Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)

3/  If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Electric Motors for RC Models

Winds and Turns

Q/  What does 15x2 or 17x3 mean?
A/  The first number relates to the number of times the wires are wound round each of the 3 armature segments, the second number relates to the number of wires side by side. So a 15x2 would have 2 wires laid side by side and wrapped around each segment 15 times.

Q/  What is the difference in performance between a Low Turn motor (eg 11x1) and a High Turn motor (eg 27x1)?
A/  A Motor with Less Turns like an 11x1 means high current draw from the batteries which corresponds to less runtime, but More Power (Torque or Punch) Best for tracks with lots of corners and short straights where fast acceleration is needed. (use a small pinion)
Motors with More Turns like a 27x1 give you More runtime, but Less Power. So you get a smoother response and are therefore easier to drive. Better for less experienced drivers and Long straight, sweeping corner tracks. (with a large pinion). This is correct for Brushed, Modified and Stock Motors as well as Brushless Motors.

Q/  How do the number of winds effect a motor?

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Hints, Tips and Information

Soldering Battery Packs

   Nicad and Nimh batteries sometimes come as six separate matched 1.2 volt cells. These of course have to be soldered to each other in series to produce either a side by side stick pack, or a two times three cell saddle pack.

   Special copper, or silver plated straps must be used to make up these packs, and each strap must be prepared before attempting to solder it to the battery cell, by placing a blob of solder at each end of all the straps needed.

   You will need a jig to hold the cells vertical and side by side, then using electrical solder, with a flux core (flux aids the flow and adhesion of the solder) heat your soldering iron to as hot as it will go. Next, with the stick of solder touching on the end of the cell, touch it with the iron. What you want it to spread evenly on the central part of the pole of the cell. Count to 3 seconds. If it doesn't melt the solder in that time, your iron is not hot enough.

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