Radio Controlled Models
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Tamiya King Tiger (Henschel Turret) - Full Option Kit - 56017 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/16 Scale Electric Tank -

  Released by Tamiya on November 6, 2002, the German King Tiger (Henschel Turret) (#56017) is the Complete Full Option Kit version, with a battery, charger and 4-channel radio system included.

  A front-mounted double gearbox, with two electric motors, operate together or individually to produce forward/reverse running and pivot turning. Metal torsion bars and suspension arms combine with the wide tracks to smoothly absorb bumps and dips in the terrain and provide high manoeuvrability. In addition, realistic engine sounds accompany the tank as it starts up, drives and stops to idle. The main gun can be elevated, depressed and swung to the left and right.

Tamiya King Tiger - # 56017

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  The German King Tiger tank first appeared towards the end of the 2nd World War in 1944. The heavy armored design has 150 mm front plates and 80 mm side plates, with 700 horsepower Maybach HL 230 - P 30 engine. The first 50 prototypes came with a turret designed by Porsche, but the mass production type came equipped with an improved turret designed by Henschel and a powerful gun which can penetrate 150 mm thick armor plate at 2000 m. Approximately 440 King Tiger tanks were produced from the summer of 1944 to March 1945. The German army intensively used it in the battle of the Ardennes in December 1944 and it was a major threat to the advancing Allied Army towards the end of the war.

  This model comes with metal bushings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, can actually wear into the metal drive shafts that spin in them - we recommend these should be replaced by a full set of steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya King Tiger - Chassis
Tamiya King Tiger Chassis
Tamiya King Tiger
Tamiya King Tiger
Tamiya King Tiger
Tamiya King Tiger
Tamiya King Tiger
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Tamiya King Tiger
Tamiya King Tiger
Tamiya King Tiger
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Tamiya King Tiger - Radio etc
Tamiya Radio etc

Hints, Tips and Information

How to avoid Radio Interference

1/  The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)

2/  Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)

3/  If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.

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Hints, Tips and Information

How to Charge Rechargeable Batteries for Peak Performance

Ni-Cad (Nickel Cadmium) Batteries

1/  All Ni-Cad Batteries have to be Discharged soon after use. This is to avoid the dreaded "Memory" effect that on subsequent re-charges can cause a momentary drop in performance during a race. A simple discharger can be made from a car 12v bulb.

2/  Try to time your charge to complete just before a race. This will ensure maximum punch and duration. If a Ni-Cad is left to cool after a charge this advantage dissipates.

3/  The higher the charge current the more Punch the Ni-Cad battery will have (up to around 8 amps), however, the downside to this is a reduction in duration and effective battery life.

4/  Ni-Cad Batteries should be left to cool for about an hour after use before recharging. This will increase the effective life of the battery.



Ni-Mh (Nickel Metal Hydride) Batteries

1/  Never charge Ni-Mh batteries at a current higher than 4.5 amps. Although these batteries can give a higher voltage than Ni-Cad Batteries, they are much more sensitive and easy to damage if charged too quickly.

2/  Charging methods for Ni-Mh batteries can also be detrimental.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Tire Compounds

   Way back in the early 1990s when I first got into RC, most of the off-road models available came with chunky hard compound block tires that gave little or no grip on grass or dirt tracks. On-road didn't have this problem as they were still using sponge tires that with a coating of wintergreen based tire additive before each race to improve grip. There was even one guy who swore, before every race, he dipped his wheels in a glass of light ale.

   Then things started to change. By the mid 1990s tire manufacturers such as Losi and Schumacher began developing smaller pin tires, in softer compounds. These mini pin versions were a revelation for grass racers, but were only a small improvement on dust tracks.

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