RCScrapyard ► Radio Controlled (RC) Models, Parts and Spares ► Orca ESC - Electronic Speed Controllers for Radio Controlled Models: For Sale in The USA, UK, Australia, Canada, Spain and Ireland (Eire)

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Tamiya Monster Buggy
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Electronic Speed Controllers
A to R

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Robitronic ESC

Orca Electronic Speed Controllers (ESC)

For Radio (Remote) Control Models
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★ Hints and Tips ★
  Learn How to Fine Tune your Electric Motor for more Torque and RPM. Learn the secrets of finding the right Pinion and Spur Gear setup for your driving style. Find out how to get the Best from your Bearings, Avoid Radio interference, and Servo Twitch. Discover how to of Charge your Batteries for more punch and performance.

★★ ESC by Current (Amp) Rating - All Manufacturers: ★★
5 Amp ESC
10 Amp ESC
12 Amp ESC
15 Amp ESC
20 Amp ESC
25 Amp ESC
30 Amp ESC
35 Amp ESC
40 Amp ESC
45 Amp ESC
50 Amp ESC
55 Amp ESC
60 Amp ESC
70 Amp ESC
80 Amp ESC
90 Amp ESC
100 Amp ESC
110 Amp ESC
120 Amp ESC
130 Amp ESC
140 Amp ESC
150 Amp ESC
160 Amp ESC
170 Amp ESC
180 Amp ESC
200 Amp ESC
240 Amp ESC
300 Amp ESC
320 Amp ESC
340 Amp ESC

★ Radio Controlled Model Accessories: ★
ESC Capacitors
ESC Capacitors
ESC Cooling Fans
ESC Cooling Fans
ESC-Motor Combo
ESC-Motor Combo
ESC Tester
ESC Tester
Sensor Cables
Sensor Cables
Electric Motors
Motors by Can Size
Brushless Motors
Motors by Turns
Pinion Gears
Pinion Gears
Spur Gears
Spur Gears
Motor Heatsinks
Motor Heatsinks
Servo Tape
Double Sided Tape
Battery Packs
Battery Packs
Battery Chargers
Battery Chargers
Bearings and Bearing Sets
Radio Transmitters etc
Radio Equipment
Radio Receivers

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Electronic Speed Controllers
S to Z

Sanwa ESC
Scorpion ESC
Speed Passion ESC
Supertigre ESC
Tamiya ESC
Team Orion ESC
Tekin ESC
TrakPower ESC
Traxxas ESC
Turbojet ESC
Turborix ESC
Turnigy ESC
Ultrafly ESC
Viper ESC
Walkera ESC
X-Racing ESC
X-Wing ESC
Yeah Racing ESC
Yuki Model ESC

Airplane ESC
Boat ESC
Buggy ESC
Helicopter ESC
Monster Truck ESC
Quadcopter ESC
Rock Crawler ESC
Touring Car ESC
Truck ESC
Truggy ESC

Types and Accessories:
Brushed Motor ESC
ESC Consistency Testers
ESC for Sensored Motors
ESC for Sensorless Motors
ESC Cooling Fans
ESC Capacitors
ESC Heatsinks
ESC - Motor - Combo
ESC - Outrunner Combo
ESC With Reverse
Micro ESC
Opto ESC
Programable ESC
RPM Sensors
Sensor Cables
SimonK Flashed ESC
Water Cooled ESC
Waterproof ESC

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USA USA UK UK Australia AUS Canada CAN En venta en Espana ES Ireland IRL

USA USA UK UK Australia AUS Canada CAN En venta en Espana ES Ireland IRL

USA USA UK UK Australia AUS Canada CAN En venta en Espana ES Ireland IRL

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★ Radio Controlled Model Accessories: ★
Gas/Nitro Engines
Nitro Engines
Bearings and Bearing Sets
Body Shells - Touring, Buggy, Truck, Monster Truck - Painted and Unpainted
Body Shells
Radio Transmitters etc
Radio Equipment
Tires - Touring, Buggy, Truck, Monster Truck, Rock Crawler
Wheels/Rims - Touring, Buggy, Truck, Monster Truck, Rock Crawler
Electronic Speed Controllers
Battery Packs
Batteries + Chargers
Electric Motors
Electric Motors

Information and Advice

Electronic Speed Controllers


    The first true Electronic Speed Controllers were developed for brushed stock and modified motors in the late 1970s, early 1980s by companies like Tekin in the USA, LRP in Germany and Demon, a London based company in the UK. These bulky and comparatively heavy early ESCs used basic resistors, rheostats, capacitors, transistor switches for stepped acceleration and rectifiers for reverse operation, all crammed together on a simple circuit board. Although they were a vast improvement on the old cumbersome mechanical speedos of the time, they were still very jerky to control and prone to burn out if not carefully managed.
    Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, each year brought improvements and with the help of the new FET (Field Effect Transistors) plus some basic mass produced integrated circuits, miniaturisation and reliability steadily improved. By the mid 1990s, "regenerative breaking" to recharge the battery was developed, long before F1 had KERS (Kinetic Energy Recovery System) and adjustable anti lock breaking was becoming the norm.
    With the introduction of Brushless Motors in the late 1990s early 2000s a new breed of ESC were developed to make the most of the new technology and ever improving Rechargable Batteries. The latest ESC now use sensors to manage the motor and can be adjusted remotely for different conditions.

ESC for Brushed Motors.

    Basic "Silver Can" Stock Motors that are usually supplied with RC model kits are easily satisfied by low current 5 Amps to 20 Amps ESC. However, Modified Brushed Electric Motors are very power hungry and need lots of Amps to feed on. ESC for these motors range from around 20 Amps to 340 Amps.
    On many older models the setup of the ESC was done using a small screwdriver to adjust the trim and output punch but newer models use a simple one step push button system.
    Higher spec ESC can be programmed to set the acceleration curve and breaking to suit your particular driving style.

ESC for Brushless Motors.

    ESC for Brushless Motors are completely different to those for brushed motors and are not compatible in any way.
    These ESC take the DC (Direct Current) input from the battery and transform it into three phase AC (Alternating Current). The three output "waves" go to each of the three wires on the Brushless motor. By changing the wavelength or frequency of the output wave the motor will spin faster or slower for acceleration and breaking. For reverse, any two of the three "phases" are simply switched.
    Current ratings of Brushless Motor ESC, at the time of this article, can be anything from 3 Amps to around 300 Amps.
    For beginners it is recommended that you buy an ESC and Motor Combo to ensure the Current rating for the ESC is correct for the Motor.

BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit).

    Many, but not all ESC have BEC to provide power for the Radio System without the need for a separate battery.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.

Hints and Tips

Radio Gear

How to avoid Interference.

1/  The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)

2/  Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)

3/  If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.

4/  As a last resort, to protect against servo twitch, try ferrite beads. (available at Radio Shack or Maplins) These are threaded over the red, white (or yellow) and black wires of each servo.

5/  If you are using a FET Servo, the installation of a choke (a small electrical component) in the positive feed wire will smooth out any current spikes and reduce the possibility of "servo twitch".

6/  Another thing you might try is a "glitch buster" or "stutter stopper". Basically, this is a capacitor that simply plugs into your Radio Receiver and attempts to keep a level voltage supply to the Radio system.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.

On/Off Road
RC Models:

Other RC Models:

Radio Equipment:

Formula One
Monster Trucks
Rock Crawlers
Touring/WRC/Drift Cars


Crystal Sets

Battery Chargers
Body Shells
Dampers (Shocks)
Electric Motors

Nitro Engines
Pinion Gears
Spur Gears