Radio Controlled Models
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Tamiya Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 Series U900 - RTR - 23662 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Electric Rock Crawler - CR-01 Chassis:

  Released by Tamiya on December 17, 2008, the Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 Series U900 (Yellow) (# 23662) was the Factory Finished, Limited Edition, RTR version of the Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 Series U900 kit (#58414), based on the 4WD CR-01 Rock Crawler Chassis.

Tamiya Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 Series U900  - CR-01 # 23662

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  The ladder framed CR-01 chassis, employs two metal side bars, jointed by a number of fixed and pivoted ties and struts to allow it to twist and flex. Two bevel gear type differentials enclosed in tough plastic axle housings are employed with a third orbital gear differential mounted in the centrally positioned gearbox with the 540 motor. Two universal drive prop shafts link the axle drives to provide excellent controlled handling.

  The suspension uses four oil filled dampers set at 45 degrees and four coil springs separately mounted behind each wheel.

  Four huge 125mm tires are perfect to traverse all types of rough and rocky terrain with ease. In my opinion this is one of the best Tamiya Radio Controlled model designs to date.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 Series U900 - Chassis
Tamiya Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 Series U900  Chassis
Tamiya Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 Series U900 - Chassis
Tamiya Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 Series U900  Chassis
Tamiya Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 Series U900 - Chassis
Tamiya Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 Series U900  Chassis
Tamiya Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 Series U900 - Chassis
Tamiya Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 Series U900  Chassis
Tamiya Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 Series U900 - Chassis
Tamiya Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 Series U900  Chassis

Buying a Used Tamiya Rock Crawler (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Tamiya Rock Crawler; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya Racing website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Rock Crawler you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Tamiya model, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Tamiya models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Rock Crawler is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Rock Crawler should be opened up to check for damaged gears and wear. If there is excessive backlash in the gearing, these should be replaced. A thin coat of grease on the gears is enough to allow smooth operation and reduce further wear.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The steering servo is also prone to damage, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Tamiya Rock Crawler comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.




















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Hints, Tips and Information

How to Charge Rechargeable Batteries for Peak Performance

Ni-Cad (Nickel Cadmium) Batteries

1/  All Ni-Cad Batteries have to be Discharged soon after use. This is to avoid the dreaded "Memory" effect that on subsequent re-charges can cause a momentary drop in performance during a race. A simple discharger can be made from a car 12v bulb.

2/  Try to time your charge to complete just before a race. This will ensure maximum punch and duration. If a Ni-Cad is left to cool after a charge this advantage dissipates.

3/  The higher the charge current the more Punch the Ni-Cad battery will have (up to around 8 amps), however, the downside to this is a reduction in duration and effective battery life.

4/  Ni-Cad Batteries should be left to cool for about an hour after use before recharging. This will increase the effective life of the battery.



Ni-Mh (Nickel Metal Hydride) Batteries

1/  Never charge Ni-Mh batteries at a current higher than 4.5 amps. Although these batteries can give a higher voltage than Ni-Cad Batteries, they are much more sensitive and easy to damage if charged too quickly.

2/  Charging methods for Ni-Mh batteries can also be detrimental.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Bearing Seals

   If you were to ask anyone with a modicum of experience in RC, they will tell you that the best modification you can make to a basic RC model, is to add a set of ball bearings.

   Quite a few of the entrance level models at the time this article was written, come with plastic and sintered brass ring type bearings. If these bearings are installed in the model and coated with grease as advised in the car manual, dust and grit can be caught in that grease and be dragged into the bearing where it can abrade the shaft that spins in it and it won't be long before it becomes a very sloppy fit, causing all kinds of problems.

   But what should you look for when buying bearings? There are a number of types of seal used on ball bearings, and there is much debate concerning which is the best for RC.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







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