Tamiya Leopard 2 A6 Main Battle Tank - # 56020
(Radio Controlled Model Review)

  Released by Tamiya on May 1, 2004, the Leopard 2 A6 Main Battle Tank (#56020) is the Full Option Kit version.

  A front-mounted double gearbox, incorporating three gear type differentials, with two electric motors, operate together or individually to produce forward/reverse running and pivot turning. Metal torsion bars and suspension arms combine with the wide tracks to smoothly absorb bumps and dips in the terrain and provide high manoeuvrability. In addition, realistic engine sounds accompany the tank as it starts up, drives and stops to idle. The main gun can be elevated, depressed and swung to the left and right.

  The Leopard 2A6 tank was produced between 2001 and 2005 and in that time was used by more than 10 European nations. The Leopard 2A5 featured replaceable wedge shaped armor on the turret, improved PERI-R 17 panoramic Commander's sight with thermal vision, spall liner on the turret interior for protection against splinters, all-electric gun control and stabilization system for easy maintenance and reduced noise, GPS navigation system, electro-pneumatic driver's hatch and a CCD camera mounted on the rear of tank for high-speed reversing. The Leopard 2A6 featured improved firepower including a 55 caliber 120mm smoothbore main gun.

  This model comes with metal bushings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, can actually wear into the metal drive shafts that spin in them - we recommend these should be replaced by a full set of steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.

Rating: 4 RCScrapyard

Getting into RC

   When I first got into racing RC, all I had was a three year old clapped out Tamiya Boomerang, a silver can stock motor, three step mechanical speed controller, two 1400Mah stick batteries and basic Acoms stick transmitter.

   I was the newbie and most of the guys I was racing against had all the latest models, modified motors, matched batteries and top spec radio equipment, but I was still beating them easily. Why? The answer is simple:

Radio Frequencies - be Careful be Safe

   After buying your first car, it won't be long before you need more than simply bashing around the back yard, or out on the street. So you will be looking around to find a club that is not too far away where you can do some serious racing.

   Before you can start racing, you will need at least three different sets of crystal frequencies. The race organisers will note down all your available frequencies when you register at the track and allocate one of those frequencies to you for your heat. To avoid change over problems from one heat to the next, they generally try to give you a frequency that no one in the heat before or after is using, but always check to make sure before you put your car down on the track and switch on.

   There is nothing more annoying than to be in the middle of your best qualifying race and some idiot switching on their transmitter in the pits, on your frequency. Not only could it spoil your race, but it could cost you a lot of money if at the time you are travelling at top speed along the straight, loose control and crash head on into the wall.