Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank - 48213
(Radio Controlled Model Review)

  Released by Tamiya on November 23, 2013, the 1/35 R/C JGSDF (Japan Ground Self Defense Force) Type 10 Tank (#48213) came with a 2.4Ghz radio system.

  This 1/35 scale assembly kit RC tank features exciting and realistic manoeuvrability with sound and light effects.

  The kit includes pre-assembled gearboxes and turret rotation unit for ease of assembly. Forward/reverse running, left/right turning, sharp turning and pivoting, as well as turret rotation and main gun elevation/depression can be controlled.

  The onboard speaker produces realistic sound effects such as engine sounds, main gun firing, damage sounds and explosions. Main gun muzzle flash and hull recoil effect are also reproduced. Tamiya's unique infrared light system will allow you to have battles with 2 or more tanks. The model features highly detailed upper hull with lower hull and road wheels specially designed for RC operation.

  The Type 10 is the new jewel in the JGSDF's crown; officially commissioned in 2010, it has a domestic-manufactured 120mm smoothbore gun and highly effective modular armor, giving it an excellent balance of offensive and defensive capabilities. Compatibility with the C4I network system has also been designed into the vehicle and this enables the coordination among units of various actions. The lightweight body is paired with a liquid-cooled V8 engine which makes the Type 10 a highly maneuverable, state-of-the-art tank.

Rating: 4 RCScrapyard

Battery Connectors

   Over the years I have been racing radio controlled model cars of all descriptions, I have tried a number of different connectors for my batteries.

   My first car was a Tamiya Boomerang, and of course the batteries I used all had the standard Tamiya connectors, which were fine with the kit supplied 27T silver can electric motor, but I soon discovered their problem when I installed my first Modified motor. The high current demands of the motor created so much heat, the plastic surround of the connectors melted and fused together. No matter how I tried they could not be disconnected. My only option was to cut the wires.

   From there I moved over to Corally connectors, commonly referred to by many now as Bullet connectors. Comprising of a short length of 4mm gold plated tube at one end, and what looks like what we used to call a Chinese lantern fitting that slotted inside the tube, also gold plated. Although they were highly efficient and reasonably easy to install and use, I never really took to this type of connector, I think it was the fact that there was always the possibility of the positive and negative being connected wrongly in poor light, and also that if positioned side by side, each connector could work loose and become exposed, leaving the possibility of a short circuit.

Bearing Seals

   If you were to ask anyone with a modicum of experience in RC, they will tell you that the best modification you can make to a basic RC model, is to add a set of ball bearings.

   Quite a few of the entrance level models at the time this article was written, come with plastic and sintered brass ring type bearings. If these bearings are installed in the model and coated with grease as advised in the car manual, dust and grit can be caught in that grease and be dragged into the bearing where it can abrade the shaft that spins in it and it won't be long before it becomes a very sloppy fit, causing all kinds of problems.

   But what should you look for when buying bearings? There are a number of types of seal used on ball bearings, and there is much debate concerning which is the best for RC.