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1/10 Scale Electric Dirt Oval Car:

Custom Works Intimidator G6 (Radio Controlled Model Review)



History and Info:

   Introduced by Custom Works circa 2015, the Intimidator G6 Electric Dirt Oval Car, was introduced in two kit options: Intimidator G6 DD, Direct Drive version - # 0916 and a less popular Intimidator G6 Gearbox version - # 0915. Both versions share a number of their parts with the Enforcer G6. A Radio System, Motor, ESC, Battery, Charger Steering Servo, Wheels, Tires and a bodyshell had to be purchased separately.

   Confusingly the numbers allocated for the Intimidator G6 DD - (0916) and Gearbox version (0915) - had previously been used for the Intimidator GBX (circa 2004) and the Pro-Comp Intimidator (circa 1993).

   The 2WD model is based on a carbon chassis plate, with carbon shock towers, a ball differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers, CVD drive-shafts, turnbuckles and a full set of ball bearings.

Custom Works Intimidator G6 DD Dirt Oval Car

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   To get the best from the Custom Works Intimidator G6, it needs to be fine tuned, to provide precise steering response and improve grip when cornering, so you don't slide off the track. Small changes can make huge advancements and our easy to understand guide will help you to the optimum Set-up for your individual driving style.








Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors















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★ Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis ★
Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis
★ Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis ★
Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis
★ Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis ★
Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis
★ Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis ★
Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis
★ Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis ★
Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis
★ Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis ★
Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis
★ Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis ★
Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis
★ Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis ★
Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis
★ Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis ★
Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis
★ Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis ★
Custom Works Intimidator G6 - 0916 Chassis
★ Custom Works Intimidator G6 Gearbox - 0915 Chassis ★
Custom Works Intimidator G6 Gearbox - 0915 Chassis
★ Custom Works Intimidator G6 to 7 - Conversion Kit ★
Custom Works Intimidator G6 to 7 - Conversion Kit

Buying a Used Custom Works Intimidator G6
Dirt Oval Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Custom Works Intimidator G6 Electric Dirt Oval Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Custom Works website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Dirt Oval Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Custom Works Dirt Oval Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Custom Works models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Custom Works Intimidator G6 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Intimidator G6 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Intimidator G6 Dirt Oval Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Dirt Oval Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the road, if you intend to race your Dirt Oval Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Dirt Oval Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Dirt Oval Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The Intimidator G6 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Custom Works Intimidator G6 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Custom Works Dirt Oval Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Intimidator G6 model and good racing.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued and Listed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.



















Hints, Tips and Information

Painting a Lexan Body Shell.

   Most RC Model kits come with an unpainted, clear Lexan plastic Body Shell you yourself must prepare and paint. This type of Body Shell is painted on the inside, and special spray or brush on Polycarbonate Paints MUST be used.

   The beauty of this is you can go wild and show off your artistic ability, or simply choose your favourite colour, and add some choice decals later.

   This article is for those who have never done this kind of thing before, and need some basic guidance.


   Firstly, cut off the waste from the body shell with sharp scissors. If required finish off the rounded wheel arches with smooth sandpaper wrapped around a drinks can.

   Any holes for body posts must also be drilled before painting. Place the clear body shell over the model and adjust the posts so the shell is in the desired position. Where the posts touch the shell make a small dot with a marker pen.
Next, pierce small holes in the shell where the dots are from the inside. Place the shell on an old piece of wood and drill the post holes, again, from the inside.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Getting into RC

   When I first got into racing RC, all I had was a three year old clapped out Tamiya Boomerang, a silver can stock motor, three step mechanical speed controller, two 1400Mah stick batteries and basic Acoms stick transmitter.

   I was the newbie and most of the guys I was racing against had all the latest models, modified motors, matched batteries and top spec radio equipment, but I was still beating them easily. Why? The answer is simple:

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







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