Radio Controlled Models
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Tamiya TRF103 Chassis - 42318 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Electric Formula One Car Chassis:

  Released by Tamiya on June 9, 2018, the 2WD TRF103 Formula One chassis, has choice of rear suspension setups of a link setup suited to high-grip tracks and a T-bar setup for slippery tracks.

Tamiya TRF103 - 42318

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  The model features include: 2.5mm Carbon Fiber Lower Deck, Front Lower Arms, Front Upper Arms, Upper Arm Mount, Upper Brace, Middle Brace and Lower Brace. 2mm Carbon Fiber Rear Bulkhead Plate and Upper Deck. Carbon Fiber Rear Shaft and Integrated Diff Housing. TRF Damper (HL Cylinder and Titanium Coated Shaft), FRP T-Bar and a number of Alloy parts, including: Servo Mounts, Clamp Type Wheel Hubs, Motor Mount, Diff Housing, Motor Spacer and Turnbuckles.


Rating: 45 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya TRF103 - Chassis
Tamiya TRF103 Chassis - 42318
Tamiya TRF103 - Chassis
Tamiya TRF103 Chassis - 42318
Tamiya TRF103 - Chassis
Tamiya TRF103 Chassis - 42318

Hints, Tips and Information

How to avoid Radio Interference

1/  The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)

2/  Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)

3/  If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Gearing to Win

   Just because you have the latest model, the best available batteries, the most powerful electric motor or nitro engine, doesn't mean you will go out and win everything in sight. The fastest car on the track is rarely the one that wins, it's the one that can accelerate out of corners under control, and remains consistent and efficient from the start to the end of a race.

   In days gone bye, all you had to consider was the number of mili amp hours (Mah) in your battery, and the current draw of your high powered motor. Gearing for a five minute race was a balancing act. But with the development of the new high capacity batteries, brushless motors and smart ESC, all that changed. Now, gearing is more of a matter of what suits your driving style and how quick your reflexes are on the sticks, the trigger and steer wheel of your transmitter. So, where do you start?

   At your local club track, you quickly find the right combination and set-up for your car by talking to the more experienced members. After a while, as your knowledge grows, tweaking a few things here and there can give you that small edge to keep you competitive. So, it follows that on tracks you don't know, you should talk to the locals there, who may be racing a similar model to your own, and adjust your set-up to suit.

   Gearing correctly for any given track is absolutely crucial if your car is to be competitive.

   Too high a gearing may get you in front at the start of a race, but as your motor begins to overheat and lose efficiency, that initial advantage will soon be lost.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Efficient Soldering

   In the sport of Radio Controlled racing, there are a number of things you have to learn to get you up there with the best. One of the most difficult, for those with little practical skill, is the art of Soldering.

   For their 540 silver can motors, Tamiya provide two wires, typically green and yellow, soldered to the endbell, with two bullet connectors to plug into the speed controller. While this is fine for bashing around the back yard, as you advance to a higher level you will soon find just how inefficient this method is.

   Motor wires are best soldered directly to the ESC. That way no energy is lost through high current draw. Some of the top drivers at one time even used to solder their batteries directly to the ESC.

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