RCScrapyard ► Radio Controlled (RC) Models, Parts and Spares ► Thunder-Tiger Phoenix BX II. For Sale in The USA.

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1/10 Scale Electric Buggy:

Thunder-Tiger Phoenix BX II


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How To Set-up, Hints and Tips for the TT Phoenix BX II:

  To achieve more with your TT Phoenix BX II, It requires a high level of tuning for improved stability when cornering, to keep it on the track, and give you more grip under acceleration. Even the smallest change in your cars settings can make a Big difference. Our simple to follow instruction chart will show how to attain the best Set-up for your personal requirements.
  With simple to follow language, we can point you towards the correct Electric Motor for your Phoenix BX II, and achieve the best Gearing, for your battery and motor combination.
  Learn the secrets the professionals have known for years to get the best from their Bearings using a number of simple tips. See how you can easily avert Radio interference, and the best way to safely Charge your Batteries For improved acceleration and more run time.


★ TT Phoenix BX II ★
Thunder-Tiger Phoenix BX II - 1:10 Electric RC Buggy






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USA

Thunder-Tiger Phoenix BX II: For Sale in the USA

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★ Thunder-Tiger Phoenix BX II: ★


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Buying a Used Thunder-Tiger Phoenix BX II Buggy.


   Buying a used Thunder-Tiger Phoenix BX II Electric Buggy, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase they can often be downloaded from the Thunder-Tiger website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Buggy you may discover can easily be fixed.

   When you receive your used Thunder-Tiger Buggy, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for anything broken that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten. Next, for those Thunder-Tiger models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Thunder-Tiger Phoenix BX II is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Phoenix BX II model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Phoenix BX II Buggy model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Buggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Buggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

   Gears are a weakness on all Buggy RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

   The Phoenix BX II steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Thunder-Tiger Phoenix BX II is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

   If your used Thunder-Tiger Buggy comes with plastic and sintered brass ring type bearings, check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Phoenix BX II model and good racing.


For More on how to Setup your Buggy, check out my Hints and Tips page.


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Hints and Tips

Tire Compounds

   Way back in the early 1990s when I first got into RC, most of the off-road models available came with chunky hard compound block tires that gave little or no grip on grass or dirt tracks. On-road didn't have this problem as they were still using sponge tires that with a coating of wintergreen based tire additive before each race to improve grip. There was even one guy who swore, before every race, he dipped his wheels in a glass of light ale.

   Then things started to change. By the mid 1990s tire manufacturers such as Losi and Schumacher began developing smaller pin tires, in softer compounds. These mini pin versions were a revelation for grass racers, but were only a small improvement on dust tracks.

   As new compounds were released, grip slowly improved. Then, with the release of the micro pin, super soft compound tires, off road was a completely different sport. Grip roll was now one of the problems drivers had to learn to contend with. This was something unheard of only a few short years before.

   Rubber Tires for On-road RC models had been around for a while in the early 1990s, but because sponge was so widely used, rubber never really caught on. Then, as Tamiya released its 1:10 on road models based on the off-road Manta Ray chassis, other manufacturers caught on and began producing their own 1:10 on-road cars. Schumacher released the SST 98, using the same gearbox and differentials as their Cat 2000 to reduce tooling costs. Tires were now being produced for this new scale in rubber. Pit Shimizu and Take-off were two of the leading RC on-road tire developers at the time, each releasing three different compounds, with recommended track temperature use. From that point on, on-road RC racing never looked back, and the days of sponge and light ale came to a shuddering stop.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips


Rechargeable Batteries
for RC Models


   At the time this article was written, there are four types of Rechargeable Batteries that are commonly in use of Radio Controlled Models.
Ni-Cad (Nickel Cadmium) Batteries have been around the longest. My first stick battery, purchased way back in 1987 was rated at 1200Mah (Mili Amp Hours) and with a silver can 27 Turn motor my Tamiya Boomerang would run around in the back yard for a good seven minutes before slowly coming to a stop. Ni-Cad development continued until around 1998 to a maximum rating of around 2000Mah and matchers pack builders and battery technicians were able to put together six cell packs with voltages approaching 7.4 Volts, to give those that could afford them, an edge over the rest.

   Ni-Mh (Nickel Metal Hydride) Batteries came along in the late 1990s, and by the year 2000 were available at ratings up to 3000Mah. Again, matchers and pack builders worked hard to provide the ardent racer with packs to provide that little bit of extra power, and ESC manufacturers also chipped in with improved controllers to take full advantage of this new technology.
   Now the problem wasn't gearing the car to get to the end of the race using the available battery power, but to find the brushed motor that could handle gear setting that provided the speed and acceleration without the motor overheating and wearing the commutator too much so it needed a skim after every 2 runs. My favourite at that time was the 9 Double.

   More recently, Li-Po (Lithium-Polymer) Batteries have appeared on the scene, providing are a huge step forward in performance when compared with Ni-Cad and Ni-Mh batteries. However, Li-Po Batteries are much more expensive than previous battery types, have a shorter effective life of between 200 and 400 charge cycles, compared to well over 1000 charge cycles for Ni-Cad and Ni-Mh, and a high degree of care has to be taken when charging Li-Po batteries. They have been known to burst into flames or even explode, for this reason I do not recommend Li-Po batteries for RC beginners.
   Another problem with Li-Po packs is they are physically bigger in size, so for those with older "Vintage" models, they may not fit into the provided space for the battery on the chassis.

   The latest development in battery technology for RC are Li-Ion. Originally produced for Laptops, Ipods, Tablets and the like, they are now available for RC models. Much like Li-Po for price and charge cycle life, the power and capacity is a moderate improvement, but for me, at the moment, not worth the expense.

   One final word of warning. NEVER leave your charging Li-Po or Li-Ion battery unattended when being charged, and NEVER above the recommended charge rate. After use, store each battery with about 60% charge remaining, and always in a fireproof bag.


For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







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