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1/10 Scale Electric Truck/Truggy:

Team Associated RC10 T4 Team - 7020 and RTR - 7021 - Radio Controlled Model



History and Information for the T4:

  Introduced by Team Associated in 2003, the 2WD RC10T4 Team Truck Kit - # 7020 - was based on the RC10B3 Buggy design, with a 2.60:1 ratio gearbox, a longer wheelbase and is 1/2 inch wider than the RC10T3.

   An RC10T4 RTR version - # 7021 - was released around the same time, with a 17-turn motor, LRP Runner ESC and Airtronics Blazer Sport Radio System . In 2004 Associated introduced the T4 Factory Team - # 7022 - and RTR T4 SE (Special Edition) - # 7023 - and in 2006 came the RTR T4 RS (Race Spec) - # 7024. (reviewed individually - pages linked below).

   The T4 and its subsequent versions were highly praised by the media and racers alike, winning a number of national and international awards, and being voted RC Car Action Reader's Choice Award in 2004, 2006, 2007 and 2008.

Team Associated RC10T4 Truck - 1:10 Electric RC Truck

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   Based on the B4 Buggy, the molded composite chassis of the T4, employs a ball differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers, slipper clutch, CVD drive-shafts (dogbones for RTR) and a full set of ball bearings (bushings for RTR).

Model Versions:

  • #7020 RC10T4 Team Kit - less radio system and electrical, with ball bearings
  • #7021 RC10T4 RTR - with radio system, ESC, motor and bushings

Features:

  • Both versions include:
  • Angled bellcrank steering minimizes bump steer to maintain constant steering angles throughout the full range of suspension travel.
  • Trailing front axle or optional inline steering blocks can be used to tune steering response.
  • Front shocks are mounted behind the shock towers. All four suspension arms utilize a "captured" hinge pin design that uses no e-clips.
  • The "forward-swept" front end design provides maximum front end ground clearance.
  • Chassis underside is contoured for maximum clearance when cornering, and minimal ground contact area on hard landings.
  • New 2.6:1 laydown transmission now uses the higher torque capacity differential from the RC10GT. Ultra-compact, efficient, low-CG design.
  • Longer CVDs dogbones and axles have been designed into the rear suspension to push the T4 out to maximum legal width for more traction.
  • High torque capacity, double-sided slipper provides finer adjustment, easier assembly, and lower rotating mass than comparable double-sided slippers.
  • Impact-resistant rear motor guard and body mounts.
  • Lower motor, battery, shock and body mounting positions give the T4 a lower CG for higher cornering speeds and greater stability.
  • Team Kit Features:
  • Hard anodised shock bodies.
  • CVD rear axles.
  • Unpainted bodyshell.
  • RTR Features:
  • Shocks: Blue anodized
  • Dogbone rear axles
  • Painted bodyshell in Red or Blue

(Source: 2004 RC10T4 Instruction Manual and Datasheet.)











Gas/Nitro Engines Body Shells Radio Transmitters etc Tires Wheels/Rims Electronic Speed Controllers Battery Packs / Chargers Electric Motors















Flags
★ RC10T4 (7020) Box Art ★
Team Associated RC10 T4 Box
★ RC10T4 (7020) Box Sides ★
Team Associated RC10T4 Box Sides
★ RC10T4 Chassis ★
Team Associated RC10T4 Team Chassis
★ RC10T4 Chassis ★
Team Associated RC10T4
★ RC10T4 Angled bellcrank steering ★
Team Associated RC10 T4
★ RC10T4 Trailing front axle or optional inline steering blocks can be used to tune steering response ★
Team Associated RC10T4
★ RC10T4 Front shocks are mounted behind the shock towers ★
Team Associated RC10T4
★ RC10T4 "forward-swept" front end ★
Team Associated RC10T4
★ RC10T4 2.6:1 laydown Stealth transmission ★
Team Associated RC10 T4
★ RC10T4 Longer CVD's and axles ★
Team Associated RC10T4
★ RC10T4 double-sided slipper clutch ★
Team Associated RC10 T4
★ RC10T4 Impact-resistant rear motor guard and body mounts ★
Team Associated RC10T4
★ RC10T4 Arms ★
Team Associated RC10 T4
★ RC10T4 Shock mounts ★
Team Associated RC10T4
★ RC10T4 RTR (7021) Box Art ★
Team Associated RC10T4
★ RC10T4 RTR Red ★
Team Associated RC10 T4
★ RC10T4 RTR Blue ★
Team Associated RC10T4
★ RC10T4 RTR Chassis ★
Team Associated RC10T4
★ RC10T4 Action ★
Team Associated RC10T4 Team

Buying a Used Team Associated T4 Truck (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Team Associated T4 Electric Truck; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Team Associated website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Truck you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Team Associated Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Team Associated models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Team Associated T4 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your T4 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your T4 Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   The gearbox of your used Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The T4 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Team Associated T4 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Team Associated Truck came with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your T4 model and good racing.

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Or, check out our RC Model Car Setup Guide

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Manufacturers and Brands Catalogued, Listed and Reviewed by RC-Scrapyard.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.




















Team Associated T4 Truck
Team Associated T4 Truck





Hints, Tips and Information

Gearing to Win

   Just because you have the latest model, the best available batteries, the most powerful electric motor or nitro engine, doesn't mean you will go out and win everything in sight. The fastest car on the track is rarely the one that wins, it's the one that can accelerate out of corners under control, and remains consistent and efficient from the start to the end of a race.

   In days gone bye, all you had to consider was the number of mili amp hours (Mah) in your battery, and the current draw of your high powered motor. Gearing for a five minute race was a balancing act. But with the development of the new high capacity batteries, brushless motors and smart ESC, all that changed. Now, gearing is more of a matter of what suits your driving style and how quick your reflexes are on the sticks, the trigger and steer wheel of your transmitter. So, where do you start?

   At your local club track, you quickly find the right combination and set-up for your car by talking to the more experienced members. After a while, as your knowledge grows, tweaking a few things here and there can give you that small edge to keep you competitive. So, it follows that on tracks you don't know, you should talk to the locals there, who may be racing a similar model to your own, and adjust your set-up to suit.

   Gearing correctly for any given track is absolutely crucial if your car is to be competitive.

   Too high a gearing may get you in front at the start of a race, but as your motor begins to overheat and lose efficiency, that initial advantage will soon be lost.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶






Hints, Tips and Information

Ride Height

   To allow the suspension on any RC model to do its work properly, it needs to ride in a position where it is able to react to any bumps and holes it may encounter on the track. Therefore, it needs to be adjusted to somewhere in-between those limits. That position is commonly termed "ground clearance" or "ride height" and is generally measured as the distance between the underside of the chassis and the ground, with the motor and battery etc installed.

   Simply speaking, determining the optimum ride height is dependent on the specific track conditions and "droop" setting (see my previous article). For Off Road models the rule is simple, the bigger the bumps and the deeper the holes, the higher the ride height. And for On Road, the lower the ride height, the better.

Read the Complete Article  ▶ ▶







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