Radio Controlled Models
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Tamiya US M1A1 Abrams 120mm Gun Main Battle Tank - 48201 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/35 Scale Electric Tank -

  Released by Tamiya on October 20, 1999, the 1/35 US M1A1 Abrams 120mm Gun Main Battle Tank (#48201) came with a 2-channel radio system and is driven by 2 motors, allowing realistic tank movement, forward, reverse, running and pivoting. Motors, battery case, switch, pilot lamp and receiver antenna lead are pre-wired. A transmitter button activates the machine gun and main gun sound effects. 4 x UM-4 (AAA) batteries provide 25 minutes of continuous running time.

Tamiya US M1A1 Abrams 120mm Gun Main Battle Tank - # 48201

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  About 5,000 M1A1 Abrams tanks were produced from 1986-92 and featured the M256 120mm smoothbore cannon, developed by Rheinmetall AG of Germany for the Leopard 2. Production of M1 and M1A1 tanks totaled some 9,000 tanks at a cost of approximately $4.3 million each.

  This model comes with metal bushings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, can actually wear into the metal drive shafts that spin in them - we recommend these should be replaced by a full set of steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya US M1A1 Abrams 120mm Gun Main Battle Tank
Tamiya US M1A1 Abrams 120mm Gun Main Battle Tank
Tamiya US M1A1 Abrams 120mm Gun Main Battle Tank
Tamiya US M1A1 Abrams 120mm Gun Main Battle Tank
Tamiya US M1A1 Abrams 120mm Gun Main Battle Tank
Tamiya US M1A1 Abrams 120mm Gun Main Battle Tank
Tamiya US M1A1 Abrams 120mm Gun Main Battle Tank
Tamiya US M1A1 Abrams 120mm Gun Main Battle Tank
Tamiya US M1A1 Abrams 120mm Gun Main Battle Tank
Tamiya US M1A1 Abrams 120mm Gun Main Battle Tank
Tamiya US M1A1 Abrams 120mm Gun Main Battle Tank
Tamiya US M1A1 Abrams 120mm Gun Main Battle Tank

Hints, Tips and Information

How to avoid Radio Interference

1/  The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)

2/  Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)

3/  If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Battery Connectors

   Over the years I have been racing radio controlled model cars of all descriptions, I have tried a number of different connectors for my batteries.

   My first car was a Tamiya Boomerang, and of course the batteries I used all had the standard Tamiya connectors, which were fine with the kit supplied 27T silver can electric motor, but I soon discovered their problem when I installed my first Modified motor. The high current demands of the motor created so much heat, the plastic surround of the connectors melted and fused together. No matter how I tried they could not be disconnected. My only option was to cut the wires.

   From there I moved over to Corally connectors, commonly referred to by many now as Bullet connectors. Comprising of a short length of 4mm gold plated tube at one end, and what looks like what we used to call a Chinese lantern fitting that slotted inside the tube, also gold plated. Although they were highly efficient and reasonably easy to install and use, I never really took to this type of connector, I think it was the fact that there was always the possibility of the positive and negative being connected wrongly in poor light, and also that if positioned side by side, each connector could work loose and become exposed, leaving the possibility of a short circuit.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Driving On Road

   The basic driving style most commonly used for all forms of on road, tarmac and carpet racing, involves using the full width of the road available, and cutting each apex as tight as possible, whilst keeping complete control of the car on the track. The style, often referred to as "Rounding" looks quite simple to those watching, but to get it right needs good hand eye coordination and lots of practice.

   Consider a 180 degree turn. As you enter the corner, start with the car positioned close to the outside of the track, then as you approach the corner brake hard, but not too hard, just enough to slow the car so you maintain control and smoothly guide the car across the point of the apex, gently sweeping round until you are approximately 75% around the corner. At this point, gradually increase the throttle out of the corner, under full control and guiding the car to the opposite outside line. By the time the car is pointing straight on the track, you should be at almost full throttle, before you brake hard again for the next corner.

   Developing this driving style comes in stages.

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