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Tamiya TA03R-S TRF Special Chassis Kit (w/49126 body) - 49139 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Electric Touring Car Chassis:

  Released by Tamiya on March 23, 2000, the 4WD TA03R-S TRF Special Chassis Kit (#49139) was a Limited Edition assembly kit, that came with the Tamiya 1/10 Porsche 911 Lightweight Body Parts Set (#49126).

Tamiya TA03R-S TRF Special Chassis Kit (w/49126 body) - 49139

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  The TA03R-S TRF (Tamiya Racing Factory) Special Chassis Kit was released in 1999, one year after TA03R TRF (#58227), with a huge number of hop-up parts included as standard, including: 4WD one way Ball Differentials, numerous alloy and carbon parts and full ball bearing set.

  All the high spec parts are in the kit, including triple deck carbon fibre chassis, super low friction dampers, universal drive shafts and a huge number of aluminium parts for strength and lightness.

  The standard gear differentials were also replaced by special lightweight ball differentials and a 4WD front one way unit. For strength and weight reduction stainless steel shafts and a hollow carbon gear shaft were also provided.

  This chassis had absolutely everything. Aluminium heat-sink motor mount, counter shaft, hub carriers and even wheel nuts, a full set of steel ball bearings and tuned springs - the list goes on.

  The Belt Driven, Four Wheel Drive TA03 chassis was first introduced in 1996 and soon became a favourite among Tamiya enthusiasts. The TA03R-S followed soon after, the "R" designating a Rear, but more mid chassis mounted Motor and the "S" for Short wheelbase (20mm Shorter).

  The TA03R-S TRF Special Chassis is the ultimate TA03 short wheelbase chassis and is perfect for the racer who wants a car to perform straight out of the box.


Rating: 4.54.5 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya TA03R-S TRF - Chassis
Tamiya TA03R-S TRF
Tamiya TA03R-S TRF - Chassis
Tamiya TA03R-S TRF
Tamiya TA03R-S TRF - Chassis
Tamiya TA03R-S TRF
Tamiya TA03R-S TRF - Chassis
Tamiya TA03R-S TRF
Tamiya TA03R-S TRF - Chassis
Tamiya TA03R-S TRF

Buying a Used Tamiya TA03R-S TRF
Touring Car (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Tamiya TA03R-S TRF Electric Touring Car; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Touring Car you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Tamiya Touring Car, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Tamiya models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Tamiya TA03R-S TRF is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your TA03R-S TRF model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your TA03R-S TRF Touring Car model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   On Belt driven models, the Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

   For Gear driven models, the gearbox of your used Touring Car should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Touring Car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Touring Car RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Touring Car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary, changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off, could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The TA03R-S TRF steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Tamiya TA03R-S TRF is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Tamiya Touring Car comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your TA03R-S TRF model and good racing.

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Hints, Tips and Information

How to Charge Rechargeable Batteries for Peak Performance

Ni-Cad (Nickel Cadmium) Batteries

1/  All Ni-Cad Batteries have to be Discharged soon after use. This is to avoid the dreaded "Memory" effect that on subsequent re-charges can cause a momentary drop in performance during a race. A simple discharger can be made from a car 12v bulb.

2/  Try to time your charge to complete just before a race. This will ensure maximum punch and duration. If a Ni-Cad is left to cool after a charge this advantage dissipates.

3/  The higher the charge current the more Punch the Ni-Cad battery will have (up to around 8 amps), however, the downside to this is a reduction in duration and effective battery life.

4/  Ni-Cad Batteries should be left to cool for about an hour after use before recharging. This will increase the effective life of the battery.



Ni-Mh (Nickel Metal Hydride) Batteries

1/  Never charge Ni-Mh batteries at a current higher than 4.5 amps. Although these batteries can give a higher voltage than Ni-Cad Batteries, they are much more sensitive and easy to damage if charged too quickly.

2/  Charging methods for Ni-Mh batteries can also be detrimental.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Bearing Seals

   If you were to ask anyone with a modicum of experience in RC, they will tell you that the best modification you can make to a basic RC model, is to add a set of ball bearings.

   Quite a few of the entrance level models at the time this article was written, come with plastic and sintered brass ring type bearings. If these bearings are installed in the model and coated with grease as advised in the car manual, dust and grit can be caught in that grease and be dragged into the bearing where it can abrade the shaft that spins in it and it won't be long before it becomes a very sloppy fit, causing all kinds of problems.

   But what should you look for when buying bearings? There are a number of types of seal used on ball bearings, and there is much debate concerning which is the best for RC.

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