RCScrapyard ► Tamiya Super Blackfoot. ITEM: #58110 - For Sale in The USA.

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Tamiya Monster Buggy
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Tamiya Super Blackfoot - #58110

1/10 Scale Electric Monster Truck:

  The original Blackfoot was released in 1986 and was considered by many to be the first true Radio Controlled Monster Truck. In 1992, six years later, Tamiya released the revamped Super Blackfoot.
  Although on the surface, with their detailed Ford F150 Ranger body shell, the two versions may look the same and both are in-fact based on the Subaru Brat (#58038) chassis, underneath they are very different.
  The redesigned gearbox of the Super Blackfoot contains an upgraded sealed bevel gear differential, which is an improvement. However, the rubber booted rear drive system has been replaced with a dog bone and cup system that for me is a step backwards.
  Like the original Blackfoot, the Super Blackfoot also comes with plastic bush type bearings that when dust and grit get in them will abrade the shafts that spin in them. My recommendation is to replace these with steel ball bearings when you first build this kit.
      Rating: 3.53.5 Stars out of 5 Reviewed by: RCScrapyard     Manual.

★ Tamiya Super Blackfoot ★
Tamiya Super Blackfoot - #58110


Tamiya #58110: For Sale in the USA

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Tamiya Super Blackfoot #58110 - Chassis
Tamiya Super Blackfoot #58110 Chassis
Tamiya Super Blackfoot #58110 - Body Shell
Tamiya Super Blackfoot #58110 Body Shell

General Advice

  For those starting in Radio Controlled Racing, here are a few Hints and Tips: Firstly, buy a Kit not an RTR. That way, if something breaks you will have some idea how to fix it.
  Radio Controlled Models are easily broken. A-Arms, Wishbones and Shock Towers, are all weaknesses and must be protected. To do this you can line the body shell with polystyrene, shaped to suit the curves of your shell and held in position using Shoe Gum.
  The Steering Servo is also a weakness in crash situations, so get a Servo Saver. Also get Titanium Shafts, Turnbuckles, Drive Shafts, Dog Bones and CVD. The standard steel types are far too easily bent.
  Broken Gear teeth on Nylon / Plastic Spur Gears are a common problem, so after two or three runs check the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Motor in position for security.
  If the Kit comes with Plastic Bushings, Hop up to a set of Shielded Ball Bearings.

For Car Setup Information check out our Hints and Tips page.

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Hints and Tips

Radio Gear

How to avoid Interference.

1/  The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)

2/  Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)

3/  If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.

4/  As a last resort, to protect against servo twitch, try ferrite beads. (available at Radio Shack or Maplins) These are threaded over the red, white (or yellow) and black wires of each servo.

5/  If you are using a FET Servo, the installation of a choke (a small electrical component) in the positive feed wire will smooth out any current spikes and reduce the possibility of "servo twitch".

6/  Another thing you might try is a "glitch buster" or "stutter stopper". Basically, this is a capacitor that simply plugs into your Radio Receiver and attempts to keep a level voltage supply to the Radio system.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.

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