Radio Controlled Models
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Tamiya Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant - # 23671 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/16 Scale Electric Tank -

  Released by Tamiya on March 15, 2010, the Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant (# 23671) is the Factory Finished, Limited Edition, RTR version.

  A front-mounted double gearbox, with two electric motors, operate together or individually to produce forward/reverse running and pivot turning. Metal torsion bars and suspension arms combine with the wide tracks to smoothly absorb bumps and dips in the terrain and provide high manoeuvrability. In addition, realistic engine sounds accompany the tank as it starts up, drives and stops to idle. The main gun can be elevated, depressed and swung to the left and right.

Tamiya Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant - # 56030

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  When the Soviets entered the Winter War, the SMK, KV and a third design, the T-100, were sent to be tested in combat conditions. The KV outperformed the SMK and T-100 designs. The KV's heavy armour proved highly resistant to Finnish anti-tank weapons, making it more difficult to stop. In 1939, the production of 50 KVs was ordered. During the war, the Soviets found it difficult to deal with the concrete bunkers used by the Finns and a request was made for a tank with a large howitzer. One of the rush projects to meet the request put the howitzer in a new turret on one of the KV tanks. Initially known as 'Little turret KV' and 'Big turret KV', the 76-mm-armed tank was redesignated as the KV-1 Heavy Tank and the 152 mm howitzer one as KV-2 Heavy Artillery Tank.

  This model comes with metal bushings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, can actually wear into the metal drive shafts that spin in them - we recommend these should be replaced by a full set of steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant - Chassis
Tamiya Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant
Tamiya Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant
Tamiya Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant
Tamiya Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant
Tamiya Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant
Tamiya Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant
Tamiya Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant
Tamiya Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant - Chassis
Tamiya Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant
Tamiya Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant
Tamiya Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant
Tamiya Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant
Tamiya Russian Heavy Tank KV-2 Gigant

Hints, Tips and Information

How to avoid Radio Interference

1/  The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)

2/  Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)

3/  If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Rechargeable Batteries
for RC Models

   At the time this article was written, there are four types of Rechargeable Batteries that are commonly in use for Radio Controlled Models.
Ni-Cad (Nickel Cadmium) Batteries have been around the longest. My first stick battery, purchased way back in 1987 was rated at 1200Mah (Mili Amp Hours) and with a silver can 27 Turn motor my Tamiya Boomerang would run around in the back yard for a good seven minutes before slowly coming to a stop. Ni-Cad development continued until around 1998 to a maximum rating of around 2000Mah and matchers pack builders and battery technicians were able to put together six cell packs with voltages approaching 7.4 Volts, to give those that could afford them, an edge over the rest.

   Ni-Mh (Nickel Metal Hydride) Batteries came along in the late 1990s, and by the year 2000 were available at ratings up to 3000Mah. Again, matchers and pack builders worked hard to provide the ardent racer with packs to provide that little bit of extra power, and ESC manufacturers also chipped in with improved controllers to take full advantage of this new technology.

   Now the problem wasn't gearing the car to get to the end of the race using the available battery power, but to find the brushed motor that could handle gear setting that provided the speed and acceleration without the motor overheating and wearing the commutator too much so it needed a skim after every 2 runs. My favourite at that time was the 9 Double.

   More recently, Li-Po (Lithium-Polymer) Batteries have appeared on the scene, providing are a huge step forward in performance when compared with Ni-Cad and Ni-Mh batteries.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Wings

   When you think of the Wing or the spoiler on any RC model car, you immediately think of down-force, but which wing is best for your model and what setting should it have?

   When you first build your car, most drivers will cut out the wing supplied in the kit, put it on the car and forget about it. It's only when the new kid at your local track starts beating you that you begin thinking about changing a few things to make your car faster, and one of the easiest changes you could make is to your wing.

   Choosing a wing for off-road can be confusing, so first of all you need to understand just what your wing can do for the way your car handles. Down-force equals traction and traction is what you need for controlled acceleration. The correct wing on your car can give you a good proportion of that down-force and if it has high side panels, it can also improve cornering and straight line stability.

   The first thing you need to consider when choosing your wing is the size.

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