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Tamiya March 782 BMW - 58013 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Electric Formula 2 Car - F2 / F2-CS Chassis:

  Released by Tamiya on June 25, 1979, this RC model of the March 782 BMW was the first Tamiya model to be based on the F2 alloy plate chassis.

Tamiya March 782 BMW - #58013

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  March was a British F2 car company who developed the March 782 incorporating a powerful BMW engine. The match was made in heaven and this company became the most successful of all F2 in the late 70s and early 80s.

  Tamiya faithfully reproduced this successful racer in June 1979. The detailed model was a great achievement of accuracy to the original model.

  The chassis was made of aluminium plate with plastic pieces. The suspension being achieved from the flexible aluminium F2 chassis. The motor supplied with the kit was an RS-380.

  Although part of the famous "Tamiya 100", this model, surprisingly, is not highly collected and because of this the price for this model is much less than some of its contemporaries.


Rating: 3.53.5 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya March 782 BMW #58013 - Chassis
Tamiya March 782 BMW #58013 Chassis
Tamiya March 782 BMW #58013
Tamiya March 782 BMW #58013 Body Shell

Buying a Used Radio Controlled Model
(General Information and Advice)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used RC model; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage car. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the manufacturers website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used model, inspect the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   If your model comes with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   A broken, ripped or damaged bodyshell, can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue (I use Shoe Goo). Also, for added protection and if available for your model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive-shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium, some cheap steel drive-shafts wear and bend far too easily.

   If you intend to race your model at a competitive level, for strength and weight reduction, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   On gear driven models, open the gearbox to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back-yard, for racing at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

   Drive Belt driven models need them checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If considered necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than approximately 5mm. Also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The pulley teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine or Electric Motor in position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur-gear. To minimise this problem, if possible, fit bolts with locking nuts to the mount, and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level racing, all plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used model comes with plastic or sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run by the previous owner with bushings installed, you may have to change all the axles and drive-shafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your RC model and good racing.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Efficient Soldering

   In the sport of Radio Controlled racing, there are a number of things you have to learn to get you up there with the best. One of the most difficult, for those with little practical skill, is the art of Soldering.

   For their 540 silver can motors, Tamiya provide two wires, typically green and yellow, soldered to the endbell, with two bullet connectors to plug into the speed controller. While this is fine for bashing around the back yard, as you advance to a higher level you will soon find just how inefficient this method is.

   Motor wires are best soldered directly to the ESC. That way no energy is lost through high current draw. Some of the top drivers at one time even used to solder their batteries directly to the ESC.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Soldering Battery Packs

   Nicad and Nimh batteries sometimes come as six separate matched 1.2 volt cells. These of course have to be soldered to each other in series to produce either a side by side stick pack, or a two times three cell saddle pack.

   Special copper, or silver plated straps must be used to make up these packs, and each strap must be prepared before attempting to solder it to the battery cell, by placing a blob of solder at each end of all the straps needed.

   You will need a jig to hold the cells vertical and side by side, then using electrical solder, with a flux core (flux aids the flow and adhesion of the solder) heat your soldering iron to as hot as it will go. Next, with the stick of solder touching on the end of the cell, touch it with the iron. What you want it to spread evenly on the central part of the pole of the cell. Count to 3 seconds. If it doesn't melt the solder in that time, your iron is not hot enough.

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