Radio Controlled Models
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Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank - RTR - # 23699 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/16 Scale Electric Tank -

  Released by Tamiya in 2015, the Japan Ground Self Defence Force Type 10 Tank (# 23699) is the Factory Finished, Limited Edition RTR version.

  A front-mounted double gearbox, incorporating 3 gear type differentials, with two electric motors, operate together or individually to produce forward/reverse running and pivot turning. Metal torsion bars and suspension arms combine with the wide tracks to smoothly absorb bumps and dips in the terrain and provide high manoeuvrability. In addition, realistic engine sounds accompany the tank as it starts up, drives and stops to idle. The main gun can be elevated, depressed and swung to the left and right.

Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank - # 56037

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  The Type 10, was the high-tech modern addition to the Japan Ground Self Defence Force (JGSDF) and was loaded with state-of-the-art features such as a newly-designed 120mm smooth-bore main gun and modular armor. It was built to a relatively small and lightweight design for suitability of use in the mountainous Japanese archipelago and offers excellent speed and manoeuvrability. Perhaps most importantly, it was also designed to be compatible with the modern C4I communications network system. Deployment commenced in 2012.

  This model comes with metal bushings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, can actually wear into the metal drive shafts that spin in them - we recommend these should be replaced by a full set of steel shielded ball bearings ASAP.


Rating: 44 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank
Tamiya JGSDF Type 10 Tank

Hints, Tips and Information

How to avoid Radio Interference

1/  The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)

2/  Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)

3/  If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Electric Motors for RC Models

Winds and Turns

Q/  What does 15x2 or 17x3 mean?
A/  The first number relates to the number of times the wires are wound round each of the 3 armature segments, the second number relates to the number of wires side by side. So a 15x2 would have 2 wires laid side by side and wrapped around each segment 15 times.

Q/  What is the difference in performance between a Low Turn motor (eg 11x1) and a High Turn motor (eg 27x1)?
A/  A Motor with Less Turns like an 11x1 means high current draw from the batteries which corresponds to less runtime, but More Power (Torque or Punch) Best for tracks with lots of corners and short straights where fast acceleration is needed. (use a small pinion)
Motors with More Turns like a 27x1 give you More runtime, but Less Power. So you get a smoother response and are therefore easier to drive. Better for less experienced drivers and Long straight, sweeping corner tracks. (with a large pinion). This is correct for Brushed, Modified and Stock Motors as well as Brushless Motors.

Q/  How do the number of winds effect a motor?

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Information and Advice

Electronic Speed Controllers

History

   ESC were originally developed to be used in conjunction with brushed 27T stock and modified motors in the late 1970s, early 1980s. Compared to modern day Controllers, they were Bulky and heavy, constructed using basic resistors, rheostats, capacitors and transistors, crammed together on a simple circuit board, to provide stepped but smooth acceleration when compared to the old mechanical, servo operated sweeper Speed Controllers. An Electronic Switch to change the direction of current flow was used on some of these early ESC to give reverse operation. Although they were a vast improvement on the old mechanical speedos of the time, they were expensive, jerky to control, and prone to burn out if not carefully looked after.

   As new technology became available, improvements were slowly made, and with the introduction of the new FET (Field Effect Transistors) and some basic mass produced silicon chips, ESC were made smaller and their reliability gradually improved.

   By the mid 1990s, "regenerative breaking" was developed. This meant that energy that would have been lost slowing down the car by effectively turning the motor into a generator, was harvested and put back into the battery. This of course was long before F1 had KERS (Kinetic Energy Recovery System) and adjustable anti lock breaking was introduced.

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