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Tamiya Blackfoot Xtreme - 58312 (Radio Controlled Model Review)

1/10 Scale Electric Monster Truck - WT-01 Chassis:

  Released by Tamiya on December 10, 2003, the Blackfoot Xtreme Radio Controlled Monster truck is a 2WD version of the successful 4WD Wild Dagger (#58231) and Twin Detonator (#58309).

Tamiya Blackfoot Xtreme - #58312

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  For the Blackfoot Xtreme and later designated the WT-01 Chassis, Tamiya simply removed the front gearbox and drive of the 4WD WR-01 version, leaving the rear gearbox and drive to produce the 2WD version.

  The design employs an orbital gear differential, a standard silver can electric motor and four coil spring over friction shock absorbers. For improved handling these should be upgraded to oil filled.

  Like many Tamiya models produced in this period, the kit comes with nylon/plastic and sintered brass bush type bearings, that after a short while, when dust and grit get into them, will abrade the metal drive shafts that spin in them. If you are building this kit to race seriously these should be replaced by steel ball bearings.

  Whilst not having the same power as the 4WD version, with the right motor installed, the reduction of weight allows the Blackfoot Xtreme to move at higher speeds than its heavier relations, but does not have the same rock climbing abilities.


Rating: 4.54.5 Stars out of 5 RCScrapyard



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Tamiya Blackfoot Xtreme #58312 - Chassis
Tamiya Blackfoot Xtreme #58312 Chassis
Tamiya Blackfoot Xtreme #58312
Tamiya Blackfoot Xtreme #58312 Body Shell

Buying a Used Tamiya Blackfoot Xtreme
Monster Truck (and What to look for)


   There are essentially three reasons you might want to buy a used Tamiya Blackfoot Xtreme Electric Monster Truck; you may be a collector, looking to restore and display it; restore and sell for a profit; or simply restore and race an iconic vintage model. Personally, I used to get a buzz out of restoring an old clapped-out model, installing modern day electrics and maybe a few hop-ups, then showing the gang at our local club, just how competitive those old models could still be.

   Cheap, pre-loved bargain models, parts and spares are always coming up for sale, but once you have made your purchase, the one thing you will always need, is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Tamiya website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Monster Truck you may discover, can easily be fixed.

Make a General Visual Inspection

Dampers
   When you receive your used Tamiya Monster Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.

   Next, for those Tamiya models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

Check the Body-Shell

   If the body shell of your Tamiya Blackfoot Xtreme is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Blackfoot Xtreme model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Drive Shafts and Turnbuckles

Titanium Turnbuckles
   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Blackfoot Xtreme Monster Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

Examine the Drive System

   On Belt driven models, the Drive Belts need checking at regular intervals for wear, tension and damage. If deemed necessary, adjust the tensioning pulley until the belt can be depressed in the centre by no more than around 5mm. If the belt was slack, also examine the drive pulleys for wear. The teeth should provide a well seated fit for the belt teeth and not be rounded on the corners. If the belt teeth do not fit snugly, change the pulleys as soon as possible. For top level racing it may be prudent to replace all belts and pulleys after each race meeting.

   For Gear driven models, the gearbox of your used Monster Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Monster Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Pinions and Spur Gears

Spur Gears
   Gears are a weakness on all Monster Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Don't Neglect the Ball-Joints

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Monster Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary, changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off, could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

Steering Servo and Servo-Saver

Servo Gears
   The Blackfoot Xtreme steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

Stabilizers

   If body roll on your Tamiya Blackfoot Xtreme is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

Don't Forget those Bearings

Ball Bearings
   If your used Tamiya Monster Truck comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Blackfoot Xtreme model and good racing.

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Hints, Tips and Information

Ball Differentials

   Ball differentials were developed in the late 1980s to replace the high friction Gear differentials. Mainly used on Touring Cars, Pan Cars and Formula One Cars, Ball Differentials are designed to be totally frictionless and smooth in action to provide effortless drive to the wheels on cornering, where the inside wheels must rotate slower than the outside wheels for controlled stability.

   Basically, the configuration of the Ball Differential is a number of small case hardened steel balls, spaced in a plastic cage that is in effect the drive gear for the axle. On each side of the gear are two hardened and tempered pressure plates that clamp over the steel balls, held in position by a screw through the centre of the assembly, incorporating a small thrust bearing and coil spring. The adjustment of this screw is crucial to the effectiveness of the differential action.

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Hints, Tips and Information

For Those New to RC


   For those starting in Radio Controlled Racing, I have prepared a number of articles with some useful Hints, Tips and Advice, based on my many years of experience in the sport.

   The categories include Battery information, Motor advice, ESC history, Servo choice, Setting your gears, Ball joints, plus many more.

   Entering the world of RC Racing can be a scary, so there are also articles relating to my own personal experience on entering the sport, and how, with determination and practice, you can progress to the higher levels of competition.

   To see the full list of our Radio Controlled Model Hints, Tips and Information, check out the list on the RC Scrapyard Homepage. ▶ ▶








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