RCScrapyard ► Radio Controlled (RC) Models, ► List of Manufacturers of Spur Gears for RC Models. For Sale in The USA.
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Tamiya Monster Buggy
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Spur Gears (Main Gears)

For Radio (Remote) Control Models
USAUS UKUK AUSAU CANCA ESES IEIE DEDE FRFR ITIT NLNL ATAT CHCH
★ Hints and Tips ★
  Learn How to Fine Tune your Electric Motor for more Torque and RPM. Learn the secrets of finding the right Pinion and Spur Gear setup for your driving style. Find out how to get the Best from your Bearings, Avoid Radio interference, and Servo Twitch. Discover how to Charge your Batteries for more punch and performance.




★ Pinions Lists by DP, Module and Nº of Teeth: All Manufacturers: ★
24dp Pinion Gears
24 dp
32dp Pinion Gears
32 dp
48dp Pinion Gears
48 dp
64dp Pinion Gears
64 dp

0.4 Module Pinion Gears
0.4 Module
0.5 Module Pinion Gears
0.5 Module
0.6 Module Pinion Gears
0.6 Module
0.7 Module Pinion Gears
0.7 Module
0.8 Module Pinion Gears
0.8 Module
1.0 Module Pinion Gears
1.0 Module

★ Radio Controlled Model Accessories: ★
Brushless Motors
Motors by Turns
Pinion Gears
Pinion Gears
Spur Gears
Spur Gears
Motor Heatsinks
Motor Heatsinks
Tires - Touring, Buggy, Truck, Monster Truck, Rock Crawler
Tires
Wheels/Rims - Touring, Buggy, Truck, Monster Truck, Rock Crawler
Wheels
Electronic Speed Controllers
ESC
Body Shells
Body Shells
Gas/Nitro Engines
Nitro Engines
Radio Transmitters etc
Radio Equipment
Radio Receivers
Receivers
Servos
Servos
Bearings and Bearing Sets
Bearings
Battery-Wire
Battery Wire
RPM-Sensors
RPM-Sensors
Servo Tape
Double Sided Tape
Battery Packs
Battery Packs
Battery Chargers
Battery Chargers

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Pinion Gears



Hints and Tips

How to Gear your Car to Win

  It's okay having the latest model, the best batteries, the most powerful electric motor or nitro engine, if you can't keep it on the track, or get it to the end of a race.

  Once upon a time it was a matter of balancing the number of mili amp hours (Mah) in your battery, against the current draw of your high powered motor, and gearing your car to last a five minute race. But when high capacity batteries and brushless motors arrived on the scene, all that changed. Now, gearing is more of a matter of what suits your driving style and how quick your reflexes are on the sticks or the trigger and steer wheel of your transmitter. So, where do you start?

  At your local track, you soon find the right combination and set-up by talking to your fellow competitors, and as your knowledge grows, tweaking a few things to give you that small edge. So, it follows that on tracks you don't know you should talk to the locals there, who may be racing a similar model to yours and get some pointers.

  Gearing correctly for a given track is crucial if you are to be competitive.

  Too high a gearing may seem okay at the start of a race, but as your motor begins to overheat and loose its efficiency, that initial advantage will soon be lost.

  Too low a gearing and although it may get you past your opposition punching out of the corners, you will loose that place again on the fast straights. Gearing low will get you to the end of the race at a consistent pace, but it won't ever get you on the winner's rostrum.

  Having said that, on a track you don't know its always best to err on the side of low gearing. Choose a motor that isn't too thirsty on the amps and with a fully charged battery, try a race length practice to learn the corners what line to enter and exit, where you can punch to overtake and how fast you need to be on the straights to keep up (not overtake). After your practice race, check the remaining capacity in your batteries and the temperature of your motor, (it is best to keep records of each motor and discover at what temperature a specific motor looses efficiency all this helps when selecting the right gearing.)

  Armed with this knowledge you can then make your decision as to how to alter your gearing.

  If the motor is cool (in comparison) and your battery has ample remaining charge, try a larger pinion perhaps one or two teeth more. Don't overdo it.

  A screaming hot motor and an almost flat battery speaks for itself. The race timed practice run should have given you an insight as to this problem. Obviously, in this instance you must use a smaller, less teeth pinion, or start again with a milder, less punchy motor with more turns.

  If the motor is hot, but not overly, the battery is almost but not completely drained and you did not notice any drop in efficiency as you raced, then you are close to the optimum set up for that particular turn motor.

  Depending on how competitive that setup is, you can stick with that, maybe tweak a tooth up or down, or repeat the process with a different turn motor to get you where you want to be.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.














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★ Radio Controlled Model Accessories: ★
Gas/Nitro Engines
Nitro Engines
Bearings and Bearing Sets
Bearings
Body Shells
Body Shells
Radio Transmitters etc
Radio Equipment
Tires - Touring, Buggy, Truck, Monster Truck, Rock Crawler
Tires
Wheels/Rims - Touring, Buggy, Truck, Monster Truck, Rock Crawler
Wheels
Electronic Speed Controllers
ESC
Battery Packs
Batteries + Chargers
Electric Motors
Electric Motors






Hints and Tips

Radio Gear

How to avoid Interference.


1/  The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)

2/  Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)

3/  If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.

4/  As a last resort, to protect against servo twitch, try ferrite beads. (available at Radio Shack or Maplins) These are threaded over the red, white (or yellow) and black wires of each servo.

5/  If you are using a FET Servo, the installation of a choke (a small electrical component) in the positive feed wire will smooth out any current spikes and reduce the possibility of "servo twitch".

6/  Another thing you might try is a "glitch buster" or "stutter stopper". Basically, this is a capacitor that simply plugs into your Radio Receiver and attempts to keep a level voltage supply to the Radio system.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.









On/Off Road
RC Models:

Other RC Models:

Radio Equipment:

Accessories:
Buggys

Formula One

Monster Trucks

Rock Crawlers

Touring/WRC/Drift Cars

Trucks/Truggys



Airplanes

Boats/Ships

Helicopters

Motorcycles

Submarines

Tanks



Crystal Sets

Receivers

Servos

Transmitters



Batteries

Battery Chargers

Bearings

Body Shells

Dampers (Shocks)

Electric Motors



ESC

Nitro Engines

Pinion Gears

Spur Gears

Tires

Wheels