RCScrapyard ► Manufacturers List of Pinion Gears for RC Models. For Sale in The USA.
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Tamiya Monster Buggy
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Pinion Gears

For Radio (Remote) Control Models
★ Pinions Lists by DP, Module and Nº of Teeth: All Manufacturers: ★
24dp Pinion Gears
24 dp
32dp Pinion Gears
32 dp
48dp Pinion Gears
48 dp
64dp Pinion Gears
64 dp

0.4 Module Pinion Gears
0.4 Module
0.5 Module Pinion Gears
0.5 Module
0.6 Module Pinion Gears
0.6 Module
0.7 Module Pinion Gears
0.7 Module
0.8 Module Pinion Gears
0.8 Module
1.0 Module Pinion Gears
1.0 Module




Pinion Gears
Pinions


Spur Gears
Spur Gears


Backlash
Backlash


Use a thin strip of plastic to set the clearance
Setting Spur Gear and Pinion clearance
RC Model Gears


   In RC there are a number of different gear teeth sizes we tend to use, based on two systems. Imperial and metric. The imperial system has sizes 24dp, 32dp, 48dp and 64dp. DP stands for Diametral Pitch and the number refers to the number of teeth per inch. The metric system has sizes 0.4m, 0.5m, 0.6m, 0.7m, 0.8m and 1m. M stands for Module and is the ratio of the reference diameter of the gear divided by the number of teeth.

   The different sizes are used basically for strength. 32dp gear teeth are larger than 64dp gear teeth, therefore the 32dp gears are by design stronger and for this reason are more commonly used on a number of entry level buggys, to help them withstand the knocks and crashes by drivers new to RC, and nitro models because of the higher torque levels involved. Also, the bigger the scale of the model, the stronger the teeth need to be.

   64dp and its metric equivalents are generally the choice of 1:10 electric on-road racers, because of its higher range of ratio options and smoother action in comparison to other sizes. On-road models are not as hard on the gears as off-road, so the weaker, small tooth size is not a problem.

   48dp and its metric equivalents tend to be preferred by 1:10 off-road racers, mainly because of their strength in comparison to the 64dp and smoother operation than 32dp. Off-road models need gears that can handle all the knocks and bangs, as well as heavy landings off high jumps.

How to set Backlash between Gear Teeth


   Setting your gears is the most important part of looking after your gears.

   Backlash is basically the gap between the teeth in mesh. The perfect gear setting must have a small amount of backlash. To achieve the best setting use a very thin sheet of plastic between the pinion and spur gear teeth as you press them into mesh. After tightening the motor mount screws, use your fingers to spin the spur gear and roll out the plastic sheet.

   If the setting is correct, there will be a small amount of movement (backlash) between the gear teeth before they catch. If the mesh is too deep, there will be no movement between the teeth, this will create friction and if you run them like this, they will grind together, wear and break. If the mesh is not deep enough and only the tips of the teeth are touching, the excessive backlash will soon damage and strip the tops off the teeth rendering the gears useless.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.






Pinion Gears



★★ 24dp Pinions: ★★

★★ 32dp Pinions: ★★

★★ 48dp Pinions: ★★

★★ 64dp Pinions: ★★


★★ 0.4 Module Pinions: ★★

★★ 0.5 Module Pinions: ★★

★★ 0.6 Module Pinions: ★★

★★ 0.7 Module Pinions: ★★

★★ 0.8 Module Pinions: ★★

★★ 1.0 Module Pinions: ★★

Hints and Tips

How to Gear your Car to Win

  It's okay having the latest model, the best batteries, the most powerful electric motor or nitro engine, if you can't keep it on the track, or get it to the end of a race.

  Once upon a time it was a matter of balancing the number of mili amp hours (Mah) in your battery, against the current draw of your high powered motor, and gearing your car to last a five minute race. But when high capacity batteries and brushless motors arrived on the scene, all that changed. Now, gearing is more of a matter of what suits your driving style and how quick your reflexes are on the sticks or the trigger and steer wheel of your transmitter. So, where do you start?

  At your local track, you soon find the right combination and set-up by talking to your fellow competitors, and as your knowledge grows, tweaking a few things to give you that small edge. So, it follows that on tracks you don't know you should talk to the locals there, who may be racing a similar model to yours and get some pointers.

  Gearing correctly for a given track is crucial if you are to be competitive.

  Too high a gearing may seem okay at the start of a race, but as your motor begins to overheat and loose its efficiency, that initial advantage will soon be lost.

  Too low a gearing and although it may get you past your opposition punching out of the corners, you will loose that place again on the fast straights. Gearing low will get you to the end of the race at a consistent pace, but it won't ever get you on the winner's rostrum.

  Having said that, on a track you don't know its always best to err on the side of low gearing. Choose a motor that isn't too thirsty on the amps and with a fully charged battery, try a race length practice to learn the corners what line to enter and exit, where you can punch to overtake and how fast you need to be on the straights to keep up (not overtake). After your practice race, check the remaining capacity in your batteries and the temperature of your motor, (it is best to keep records of each motor and discover at what temperature a specific motor looses efficiency all this helps when selecting the right gearing.)

  Armed with this knowledge you can then make your decision as to how to alter your gearing.

  If the motor is cool (in comparison) and your battery has ample remaining charge, try a larger pinion perhaps one or two teeth more. Don't overdo it.

  A screaming hot motor and an almost flat battery speaks for itself. The race timed practice run should have given you an insight as to this problem. Obviously, in this instance you must use a smaller, less teeth pinion, or start again with a milder, less punchy motor with more turns.

  If the motor is hot, but not overly, the battery is almost but not completely drained and you did not notice any drop in efficiency as you raced, then you are close to the optimum set up for that particular turn motor.

  Depending on how competitive that setup is, you can stick with that, maybe tweak a tooth up or down, or repeat the process with a different turn motor to get you where you want to be.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.






Spur Gears




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