Established 1999
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Established 1999 |
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Site Search
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From Around The WORLD|
Nitro:
Losi RC Models: 
1/8 Scale Buggys: 8IGHT 2.0 - Buggy 8IGHT 2.0 EC - Buggy 810 - Buggy ------------------------------- Other 1/8 Nitro Buggys ------------------------------- 
1/8 Scale Monster Trucks: Aftershock - Monster LE Aftershock - Monster LST Super Truck - Monster LST2 - Monster LST XXL - Monster Muggy - Monster Raminator - Monster ---------------------------------- Other 1/8 Nitro Monsters ---------------------------------- 
1/8 Scale On Road: L8ight - Race Roller ------------------------------- Other 1/8 Nitro On Road ------------------------------- 
1/5 Scale Trucks/Truggys: 5ive-T - Truck ------------------------------ Other 1/5 Nitro Trucks Other 1/6 Nitro Trucks ------------------------------ 1/8 Scale Trucks/Truggys: 8IGHT-T 2.0 - Truggy ------------------------------ Other 1/8 Nitro Trucks ------------------------------ 1/10 Scale Trucks/Truggys: Speed-NT - Truck Ten-T - Truggy ------------------------------- Other 1/10 Nitro Trucks ------------------------------- Electric: Losi RC Models: 
1/8 Scale Buggys: 8IGHT-E 2.0 - Buggy --------------------------------- Other 1/8 Elec Buggys --------------------------------- 1/10 Scale Buggys: Junior Two - Buggy JRX2 - Buggy JRX Pro - Buggy TLR 22 - Buggy XX - Buggy XX CR - Buggy XX4 - Buggy XXX - Buggy XXX BK (BK1) - Buggy XXX BK2 - Buggy XXX CR - Buggy XXX SCB - SC Buggy XXX4 - Buggy XXX4 G+ - Buggy Slider - Dirt Oval --------------------------------- Other 1/10 Elec Buggys --------------------------------- 1/14 Scale Buggys: Mini 8ight - Buggy --------------------------------- 1/18 Scale Buggys: Mini Desert Buggy Mini Slider - Dirt Oval Mini Sprint - Dirt Oval --------------------------------- Other 1/18 Elec Buggys --------------------------------- |
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Electric:
Losi RC Models: 
1/10 Scale Monster Trucks: Junior T - Monster --------------------------------- Other 1/10 Elec Monsters --------------------------------- 1/18 Scale Monster Trucks: Mini LST - Monster Mini LST2 - Monster Mini Monster Baja --------------------------------- Other 1/18 Elec Monsters --------------------------------- 
1/10 Scale On Road: Drift-R - Touring JRX-S - Touring JRXS Type R - Touring Rally Weapon - Touring Street Weapon - Touring XXX-S - Touring --------------------------------- Tamiya 1/10 Touring Cars Other 1/10 Elec Touring --------------------------------- 1/18 Scale On Road: Mini Late-Model - Touring --------------------------------- Other 1/18 Elec Touring --------------------------------- 
1/10 Scale Electric Rock Crawlers: Comp Crawler Night Crawler 1/18 Scale Electric Rock Crawlers: Mini Rock Crawler ----------------------------- Other Rock Crawlers (All Scales) ----------------------------- 
1/10 Scale Trucks/Truggys: Desert Truck High Roller Lifted Truck JRX-T - Truck Readylift XXX-SCT - Trk Rockstar XXX-SCT - Trk Speed-T - Truck Strike - SC Truck Stronghold XXX-SCT - Trk Ten SCTE - Truck TLR 22T - S Truck XX-T - Truck XX-T CR - Truck XXX-T - Truck XXX-T CR - Truck XXX-T MF2 - Truck ------------------------------- Tamiya 1/10 Trucks Other 1/10 Elec Trucks ------------------------------- 1/16 Scale Trucks/Truggys: Mini SCT - Truck --------------------------------- Other 1/16 Elec Trucks --------------------------------- 1/18 Scale Trucks/Truggys: Mini Baja - Truck Mini Desert Truck Mini High-Roller - Truck Mini T - Truck --------------------------------- Other 1/18 Elec Trucks --------------------------------- ------------------------------- << Electric Buggys << <<<<<Other Side<<<< ------------------------------ ------------------------------ Other Manufacturers List ------------------------------ |
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Tires Rubber Tires ALWAYS should have either soft sponge or rubber inserts. They will not function as they should without them. And if you are totaly serious about your racing they should be glued to the rims. You should also have at least three different compounds (Soft, Medium and Hard) fo varying track temperatures in On Road tarmac racing Touring cars, and varying pin sizes for carpet and of course Off Road racing Buggies. Before mounting your Tires I would recommend asking around the more experienced racers at your local club as to what inserts they use. Even the top level racers rely on a bit of local knowledge on tracks they have never raced before. 1/ Once you have decided what inserts to use, position them inside the Tires ready to go onto the rims. 2/ You will need strong fingers to pull and manoever the Tires over the rims so you may need the help of an adult. (I would recommend NOT using metal Tire leavers or a spoon as they can not only damage the fragile plastic rims but can also put small tears in the rubber, that could cause problems later) The techneque I recommend is to first of all hook the Tire on one side of the rim, then using the thumb and forefinger, grip the Tire and pull it upwards and over into position around the middle of the wheel, then over to its final position on the far side so that the beading is seated in the spigot. then position the near side beading in the opposite spiggot making sure the sponge (or rubber) incert is not trapped and positioned centrally. 3/ You have the option of either gluing or not gluing your tires on. If the track you race at is not too grippy you can get away with it, but on high grip tracks there is the possibility the tire might pull away from the rim and ruin your race. My recommendation in that case is to glue. Superglue is the thing to use. To do this carefully pull the beeding out of its seating put on a spot of glue then quickly push it back down. repeat this about 6 times around each side of the wheel. Superglue can be dangerous, so this is best done by an adult. Sponge Tires can be puchased either pre mounted, glued and trued on the rims or seperately. Fitting the Tires onto the rims can be messy so here are a few tips to make it a bit easier. If you are fitting new Tires on old rims make sure the old sponge Tire is completely removed, to do this I recomend using a wood lathe and a bat or piece of wood with medium grit emery paper stuck to it ... sand paper will also work, but emery is harder wearing ... This will also be used for trueing the wheel, described later. 1/ Mount the Tires on the rims. Make sure they are reasonably tight on the rims, too loose and you might have problems. 2/ I find this to be easier if either in the lathe or on the car itself (but be carefull with that glue) Using your thumb and forefinger, lift up the Tire off the rim, then using a small spatula or a thin piece of rigid wood or plastic dipped in glue (I recomend Evo-Stik, Impact Adhesive) slip it in the gap, making sure both the Tire and the rim are smeared. Then lower the Tire back onto the rim and press it down. Turn the Tire approximately 60 degrees and repeat. 3/ Depending on the width ot the Tire you may need to repeat the process on the inside also. Trueing Sponge Tires is esential if you are serious about racing competatively. To do this you will need the bat or piece of wood, as described earlier and a good pair of vernear or digital calipers. Sponge Tires will always wear unevenly, weather you race on Carpet or Tarmac, the outside wheels will always end a race smaller than the inside, so after each race I recommend swaping them over (unless u are fortunate to have a new set for each race) and dont forget to adjust the steering trim on your transmitter before the next race. 1/ Before starting check each mounted Tire for diamiter and order them smallest to largest. Start with the smallest and mount it in the lathe. 2/ Make sure you are wearing safety glasses before you start this procedure: Lay the sanding bat under the Tire so that it can be pivoted up from behind onto the Tire. Start the lathe spinning so that as you stand before the Tire it is rotating downwards. Slowly lift the bat and try to hold it ridged as it comes up against the Tire. There will be a high point on the Tire that if you hold the bat rigid enough will eventually wear down until the Tire apears completely concentric. at this point stop the lathe and measure the diameter on the inside and outside of the width. If needs be, repeat the process until satisfied. Repeat for each Tire, mathcing them in pairs for diamiter. If concidered necessery also trim the sides. |
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Radio Gear How to avoid Interference. 1/ The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration) 2/ Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again) 3/ If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference. 4/ As a last resort, to protect against servo twitch, try ferrite beads. (available at Radio Shack or Maplins) These are threaded over the red, white (or yellow) and black wires of each servo. |
Information and AdviceRadio Controlled Model Cars are very fragile and easily broken. The main parts to protect are the Front A-Arms, Wishbones, Suspension Shock Towers, Shock Absorbers (Dampers), Hub Carriers, Kingpins, Uprights and Toe in Blocks, so make sure you have a good strong Bumper and Lexan or Fiberglas Body Shell, with, if available, an under guard/tray/panel and Roll Cage. For added protection you can line the shell with the waxy type of polystyrene you get in many electrical goods boxes. This can be easily shaped with a modelling knife to suit the curves of your shell and held in position using Shoe Gum. (Also recommended for fixing splits and rips in your Shell) The Steering Servo is also a weakness in High Speed Side Swipe crash situations, so get yourself some good strong Servo Mounts/Stays and Servo Saver. Also I would recommend Titanium Shafts, Turnbuckles, Tie Rods and pivot/steering shafts and if available for your model, lightweight Titanium Drive shafts, dog bones and CVD (Constant Velocity Drives). The standard steel types are far too easily bent. Gearing is another area of weakness on model cars. Head on collisions can easily break off gear teeth on Nylon/Plastic Spur Gears and even Bevel Gears inside the Gearbox (Gear case/housing) heavy impacts can also loosen nuts and or self taping screws that hold the Motor in Position, allowing the Pinion Gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops of the teeth on your Spur Gear. To avoid this to some degree, fit Nyloc nuts, and a new motor mount from time to time so the self taping screws that hold the motor in position have less chance to come loose. Many New car kits come with Nylon and Sintered Brass Bushings. My advice is to bin these before fitting and buy a good Hop up set of Shielded Ball Bearings. Or if you are serious about your racing, Teflon Ceramic Ball/Roller Thrust Bearings. One final bit of advice about the Setup of your Car. Keep the Centre of Gravity as low as possible. Ride Height is all important. For On Road Drift/Touring cars the Ride Height should be no more than 5mm, for Buggys, Trucks, Truggys and Monster Trucks, as low as possible depending on the track conditions. If Body Roll is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of Stabilizers, Anti roll or Sway Bars, stiffer Tuning Springs and, or thicker Silicon Oil in the Dampers. Also find somewhere to mount the Transponder as low in the Chassis as possible. |
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| brushless + motors | batteries + chargers | esc + speed controllers | nitro engines | tires + rims | radio | servos | airplanes | boats | buggys | helicopters | monster | touring | trucks |
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