RCScrapyard ► Radio Controlled (RC) Models, Parts and Spares ► Kyosho USA-1 Nitro Crusher. For Sale in The USA.

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1/8 Scale Nitro Monster Truck:

Kyosho USA-1 Nitro Crusher


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How To Set-up, Hints and Tips for the Kyosho USA-1 Nitro Crusher:

  If you need to get more from your Kyosho USA-1 Nitro Crusher, it has to have the best settings for your driving style, and provide you with excellent handling and stability. The smallest changes can make a huge difference in the way your car performs on the track, and our comprehensive instructions will help you to find the best Set-up to get you where you want to be.
  If you are having any problems, our guide will show you what to look for and how to fine tune the Nitro Engine for your USA-1 Nitro Crusher.
  With some basic, sensible tips, you will discover just how easy it is to avert Radio interference, and Servo trouble, by moving your receiver or adjusting the position or height of your antenna. See how you can halve the friction and maintain your Kyosho USA-1 Nitro Crusher Bearings with a few common sense hints and tips.


★ Kyosho USA-1 Nitro Crusher ★
Kyosho USA-1 Nitro Crusher






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USA

Kyosho USA-1 Nitro Crusher: For Sale in the USA

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★ Kyosho USA-1 Nitro: ★


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Buying a Used Kyosho USA-1 Nitro Crusher
Monster Truck.


   Buying a used Kyosho USA-1 Nitro Monster Truck, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase they can often be downloaded from the Kyosho website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Monster Truck you may discover can easily be fixed.

   When you receive your used Kyosho Monster Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for anything broken that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten. Next, for those Kyosho models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Kyosho USA-1 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your USA-1 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replaced as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your USA-1 Monster Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Monster Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Monster Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

   Gears are a weakness on all Monster Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Monster Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

   The USA-1 steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Kyosho USA-1 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

   If your used Kyosho Monster Truck comes with plastic and sintered brass ring type bearings, check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your USA-1 model and good racing.


For More on how to Setup your Monster Truck, check out my Hints and Tips page.


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Hints and Tips

Gas / Nitro Engines

1/   New RC Gas Engines need running or "breaking" in before being used competitively. 2 or 3 tanks of fuel are usually enough, but don't over rev the engine and try to keep it cool, below 160 degrees F (71 degrees C)

2/   To maximise your RC Gas engines power reduce air leaks as much as possible by using silicone sealant or high temperature gaskets where the carburettor and the exhaust manifold joins the engine block.

3/   As a rule, try to keep your engine temperature at around 210 F (99 C) and no higher than 225 degrees F (107 degrees C). If your engine temperature is higher than 225 F (107 C) try tweaking the mixture a little richer. If too cool (below 200 degrees F (93 degrees C)) tweak the mixture a little leaner.


Tell Tale Signs of a Lean burning engine.


1/   The engine dies at full throttle, or while simply idling.

2/   The Glow Plug element is white.

3/   The engine overheats (above 225 degrees F (107 degrees C))


Tell Tale Signs of a Rich burning engine.


1/   Blue smoke from the exhaust (tail) pipe.

2/   The smell of fuel from the exhaust (tail) pipe.

3/   Engine temperature below 200 degrees F (93 degrees C)


For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.






Hints and Tips

Droop

   When you pick up your RC model car, the suspension arms naturally drop, this is termed as Droop and should be equal from side to side, but can vary from front to rear.

   Setting the amount of droop, or suspension movement, can dramatically change the handling of your car by limiting the transfer of weight from one side of the car to the other.

   Basically, increasing the droop at the rear of the car can improve cornering grip at the front and increasing droop at the front of the car, improve cornering grip at the rear. The amount of effectiveness of this setting does in general depend on a number of other setting factors your car may have to suit your personal driving style. Also, adding any droop will increase body roll.

   Off road models obviously have the need for more droop than On road cars, especially on bumpy tracks where a large amount of suspension movement is needed to simply keep the wheels on the track, or the car will become unstable and un-drivable. Lower droop settings for smoother, high grip tracks on the other hand can be advantageous, but don't overdo it.

   On road cars can achieve good results from small changes in droop, on tarmac and on carpet. In general they are also easier to adjust for droop than their off road cousins.

   Limiting the amount of droop can be achieved in a number of ways, but by far the easiest is more often seen as a standard setting option for On road cars and is achieved by simply turning a screw, located on the suspension arms, that comes up against the chassis.

   For Off road models and those On road cars that do not have the above option, droop can be set by positioning a specific length of plastic tube over the damper shaft, just below the piston this of course means stripping and rebuilding each damper with the new setting, which can be messy, especially in the middle of a field. Some of the top drivers used to get around this by simply having a number of different sets of shocks, with all the settings they might need, but for us mere mortals, this of course isn't a realistic option.

   If you are close to what you consider to be your optimum droop setting, you can fine tune this by simply screwing on or off the plastic ball connector at the end of the shock shaft. You could also have different length ball connectors that you could easily change.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.








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