RCScrapyard ► Radio Controlled (RC) Models, Parts and Spares ► HPI D8S. For Sale in The USA.

Tamiya Buggys RCScrapyard: New, used, second hand radio controlled models, parts and spares.
Established 1999
Tamiya Monster Buggy
Site Search
Complete RC Model Listings    USA - Sitemap UK - Sitemap AU - Sitemap CA - Sitemap ES - Mapa del sitio IE - Sitemap DE - Sitemap FR - Plan du Site IT - Mappa del sito NL - Sitemap AT - Sitemap CH - Sitemap    From Around The WORLD

1/8 Scale Nitro Buggy:

HPI D8S


USAUS UKUK AUSAU CANCA ESES IEIE DEDE FRFR ITIT NLNL ATAT CHCH

How To Set-up, Hints and Tips for the HPI D8S:

  To attain the best with your HPI D8S, it requires time and patience, to tune and adjust for improvements in handling and steering ability, and to get the grip you need to stay on course when manoeuvring around tight, slippery corners. A little can be a lot when it comes to changing your cars settings, and our easy methodical directions will guide you to the best Set-up to help you win and keep you winning.
  Our easy to understand guide will show you how to adjust the Nitro Engine for your D8S.
  Employing a number of sensible ideas, find out how you can avoid Radio interference, and problems with your Servo, by making a few changes to the layout of your equipment in your chassis. Discover what the top drivers to improve the efficiency of their HPI D8S Bearings with a few common sense hints and tips.


★ HPI D8S ★
HPI D8S - 1:8 Nitro RC Buggy






★ Radio Controlled Model Accessories: ★
Gas/Nitro Engines
Nitro Engines
Glow Plugs
Glow Plugs
Starters
Starters
Nitro Fuel
Nitro Fuel
Tires - Touring, Buggy, Truck, Monster Truck, Rock Crawler
Tires
Wheels/Rims - Touring, Buggy, Truck, Monster Truck, Rock Crawler
Wheels
Radio Transmitters etc
Radio Equipment















USA

HPI D8S: For Sale in the USA

Logo

★ HPI D8S: ★


USA - Sitemap UK - Sitemap AU - Sitemap CA - Sitemap ES - Mapa del sitio IE - Sitemap DE - Sitemap FR - Plan du Site IT - Mappa del sito NL - Sitemap AT - Sitemap CH - Sitemap


Buying a Used HPI D8S Buggy.


   Buying a used HPI D8S Nitro Buggy, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase they can often be downloaded from the HPI website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Buggy you may discover can easily be fixed.

   When you receive your used HPI Buggy, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for anything broken that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten. Next, for those HPI models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your HPI D8S is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your D8S model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replaced as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your D8S Buggy model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Buggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Buggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

   Gears are a weakness on all Buggy RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

   The D8S steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your HPI D8S is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

   If your used HPI Buggy comes with plastic and sintered brass ring type bearings, check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your D8S model and good racing.


For More on how to Setup your Buggy, check out my Hints and Tips page.


^ TOP ^


Click Here


Not Here?
Maybe Tomorrow.
♥ Add This Page to your Favorites (Ctrl+D) ♥

★ Radio Controlled Model Accessories: ★
Gas/Nitro Engines
Nitro Engines
Bearings and Bearing Sets
Bearings
Body Shells
Body Shells
Radio Transmitters etc
Radio Equipment
Tires - Touring, Buggy, Truck, Monster Truck, Rock Crawler
Tires
Wheels/Rims - Touring, Buggy, Truck, Monster Truck, Rock Crawler
Wheels
Electronic Speed Controllers
ESC
Battery Packs
Batteries + Chargers
Electric Motors
Electric Motors






Hints and Tips

Damper Pistons

   When you first build your RC model, you will sometimes find that there are a number of different pistons in the kit, with varying numbers of holes or hole sizes in them. Generally, the manufacturer will suggest one particular piston in the car manual, and may provide you with a mid range oil weight, but depending on the type of terrain you intend to race your model, their suggestion may not be the best for your needs.

   When it comes to tuning your dampers there are basically two things you need to know about pistons. "Pack" and "Static Damping".

   Pack, is the speed your damper reacts to any quick compression and can be considered to be a consequence of the size or number of holes in the piston. Smaller holes, more pack, larger holes, less pack.

   Static Damping is the amount of resistance you sense when slowly pulling or pushing the piston rod in and out of the damper. As with pack, this is related to the number or size of the piston holes. Larger holes, less static damping, smaller holes more static damping.

   Setting up your dampers is a matter of trial and error. With the car in full race mode, that means with everything installed, place it on a table, then pick up the rear of the car, raising it around six inches and drop it onto the table. The chassis should dip slightly below then back up again to the pre-set ride height, in one smooth movement. If instead, it slaps down onto the table, the pack of your dampers is not enough. In this instance, depending on the setup you are testing, you have two options, thicker oil or smaller holed pistons. If when you do the test the dip is hardly any, then the pack is too hard and you should try thinner oil or bigger holed pistons. Repeat this process for the front of the car. Finally, with both ends adjusted, pick up the entire car and drop it from the same height. Both ends should respond equally when dropped, if not, change your pistons or oil weights until they do.

   After your basic setup, you then need to test your car on the track. If the rear of the car tends to hop excessively over small bumps, the rear dampers have too much pack. You need to change the pistons on the rear for larger holes, and also use thicker oil to maintain static damping. If the car chassis bottoms through small bumps and landing on jumps, the pack is not enough. In this instance, change for smaller holes and thinner oil.

   If the car lands nose up from a jump, this is indicative of the front dampers having too much pack. These should be adjusted as described above to keep the car static damping in balance. Nose down obviously means not enough pack ..

   I hope this article has been helpful. Good luck and good racing.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips


Rechargeable Batteries
for RC Models


   At the time this article was written, there are four types of Rechargeable Batteries that are commonly in use of Radio Controlled Models.
Ni-Cad (Nickel Cadmium) Batteries have been around the longest. My first stick battery, purchased way back in 1987 was rated at 1200Mah (Mili Amp Hours) and with a silver can 27 Turn motor my Tamiya Boomerang would run around in the back yard for a good seven minutes before slowly coming to a stop. Ni-Cad development continued until around 1998 to a maximum rating of around 2000Mah and matchers pack builders and battery technicians were able to put together six cell packs with voltages approaching 7.4 Volts, to give those that could afford them, an edge over the rest.

   Ni-Mh (Nickel Metal Hydride) Batteries came along in the late 1990s, and by the year 2000 were available at ratings up to 3000Mah. Again, matchers and pack builders worked hard to provide the ardent racer with packs to provide that little bit of extra power, and ESC manufacturers also chipped in with improved controllers to take full advantage of this new technology.
   Now the problem wasn't gearing the car to get to the end of the race using the available battery power, but to find the brushed motor that could handle gear setting that provided the speed and acceleration without the motor overheating and wearing the commutator too much so it needed a skim after every 2 runs. My favourite at that time was the 9 Double.

   More recently, Li-Po (Lithium-Polymer) Batteries have appeared on the scene, providing are a huge step forward in performance when compared with Ni-Cad and Ni-Mh batteries. However, Li-Po Batteries are much more expensive than previous battery types, have a shorter effective life of between 200 and 400 charge cycles, compared to well over 1000 charge cycles for Ni-Cad and Ni-Mh, and a high degree of care has to be taken when charging Li-Po batteries. They have been known to burst into flames or even explode, for this reason I do not recommend Li-Po batteries for RC beginners.
   Another problem with Li-Po packs is they are physically bigger in size, so for those with older "Vintage" models, they may not fit into the provided space for the battery on the chassis.

   The latest development in battery technology for RC are Li-Ion. Originally produced for Laptops, Ipods, Tablets and the like, they are now available for RC models. Much like Li-Po for price and charge cycle life, the power and capacity is a moderate improvement, but for me, at the moment, not worth the expense.

   One final word of warning. NEVER leave your charging Li-Po or Li-Ion battery unattended when being charged, and NEVER above the recommended charge rate. After use, store each battery with about 60% charge remaining, and always in a fireproof bag.


For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Trend Times Toy Store


On/Off Road
RC Models:

Other RC Models:

Radio Equipment:

Accessories:
Buggys
Formula One
Monster Trucks
Rock Crawlers
Touring/WRC/Drift Cars
Trucks/Truggys


Airplanes
Boats/Ships
Helicopters
Motorcycles
Submarines
Tanks


Crystal Sets
Receivers
Servos
Transmitters


Batteries
Battery Chargers
Bearings
Body Shells
Dampers (Shocks)
Electric Motors


ESC
Nitro Engines
Pinion Gears
Spur Gears
Tires
Wheels