RCScrapyard ► GS Racing New and Vintage, Radio Controlled Models Parts and Spares. For Sale in The USA.

Nitro RC Models RCScrapyard: New, used, second hand radio controlled models, parts and spares.
Established 1999
Electric RC Models
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GS Racing Radio Controlled Models

GS-Racing-Nitro-Buggys
GS Racing
Nitro
Buggys

GS-Racing-Nitro-On-Road
GS Racing
Nitro
On Road

GS-Racing-Nitro-Trucks
GS Racing
Nitro
Trucks

GS-Racing-Electric-Buggys
GS Racing
Electric
Buggys

GS-Racing-Electric-On-Road
GS Racing
Electric
On Road

1/8 Scale
Buggys:

Avenger
Avenger Storm Mk II
CLX
Storm
Storm CL-1
Storm CL-1 Pro
Storm CLX Pro
Storm Evo
Storm Evo 25
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Other 1/8 Nitro Buggys
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1/10 Scale
Buggys:

Shadow SB1
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Other 1/10 Nitro Buggys
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1/9 Scale
On Road:

Conqueror
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Other 1/8 Nitro On Road
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1/10 Scale
On Road:

Vision
Vision Pro
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Other 1/10 Nitro On Road
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1/8 Scale
Trucks/Truggys:

Storm Unlimited
SUT
XUT
XUT Pro
XUT II Pro
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Other 1/8 Nitro Trucks
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1/10 Scale
Trucks/Truggys:

Shadow
Shadow ST1
Shadow ST1R
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Other 1/10 Nitro Trucks
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1/8 Scale
Buggys:

CLXE
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Other 1/8 Elec Buggys
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1/10 Scale
On Road:

Vision EvoE
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Tamiya 1/10 On Road
Other 1/10 Elec On Road
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Buying a Used GS-Racing Radio Controlled Model.


   Buying a used GS-Racing, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the road.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase they can often be downloaded from the GS-Racing website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model you may discover can easily be fixed.

   When you receive your used GS-Racing model, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for anything broken that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten. Next, for those GS-Racing models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your GS-Racing car is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replaced as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your GS-Racing model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used RC model should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the road, if you intend to race your car at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

   Gears are a weakness on all RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level GS-Racing model car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

   The steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your GS-Racing car is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

   If your used GS-Racing model comes with plastic and sintered brass ring type bearings, check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your model and good racing.


For More on how to Setup your GS-Racing model, check out my Hints and Tips page.














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★ Radio Controlled Model Accessories: ★
Gas/Nitro Engines
Nitro Engines
Bearings and Bearing Sets
Bearings
Body Shells
Body Shells
Radio Transmitters etc
Radio Equipment
Tires - Touring, Buggy, Truck, Monster Truck, Rock Crawler
Tires
Wheels/Rims - Touring, Buggy, Truck, Monster Truck, Rock Crawler
Wheels
Electronic Speed Controllers
ESC
Battery Packs
Batteries + Chargers
Electric Motors
Electric Motors

Hints and Tips

Radio Gear

How to avoid Interference.


1/  The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)

2/  Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)

3/  If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.

4/  As a last resort, to protect against servo twitch, try ferrite beads. (available at Radio Shack or Maplins) These are threaded over the red, white (or yellow) and black wires of each servo.

5/  If you are using a FET Servo, the installation of a choke (a small electrical component) in the positive feed wire will smooth out any current spikes and reduce the possibility of "servo twitch".

6/  Another thing you might try is a "glitch buster" or "stutter stopper". Basically, this is a capacitor that simply plugs into your Radio Receiver and attempts to keep a level voltage supply to the Radio system.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.



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Crystal Sets
Receivers
Servos
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Batteries
Battery Chargers
Bearings
Body Shells
Dampers (Shocks)
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ESC
Nitro Engines
Pinion Gears
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