RCScrapyard ► Radio Controlled F1 (Formula One) and F2 Cars. For Sale in The USA.
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Established 1999
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Formula One (F1) and Formula Two (F2) Radio Controlled Models

Tamiya F1 Car

Tamiya F1 - F2:

Tamiya F1
Benetton B192 ★ #58118 - F102
Brabham BT50 BMW Turbo ★ #58031 - Alloy Plate
Can Am Lola ★ #58021 - RM-1 (1:12)
Ferrari 312T3 ★ #58011 - Alloy Plate
Ferrari 312T3 ★ #49191 - F103RS
Ferrari 412T1 ★ #58142 - F103
Ferrari F189 Late Version ★ #58084 - F101
Ferrari F2001 ★ #58288 - F201
Ferrari F2012 ★ 58559 - F104
Ferrari F310B ★ #58213 - F103RS
Ferrari F60 ★ #58447 - F104
Footwork FA13 Mugen ★ #58114 - F102
Honda F2 (CS) ★ #58030 - FRP
Jordan 191 ★ #58103 - F101
JPS Lotus 79 (CS)★ #58020 - Alloy Plate
Ligier JS9 Matra ★ #58010 - Alloy Plate
Ligier JS9 Matra (CS)★ #58012 - Alloy Plate
Lotus 102B Judd ★ #58095 - F101
Lotus 107B Ford ★ #58126 - F103
Lotus Honda 99T ★ #58068 - FRP
Lotus Type 79 ★ #84122 - F104W
March 782 BMW (F2) ★ #58013 - FRP

Martini Mk22 Renault (F2) ★ #58014 - FRP
McLaren MP4/6 Honda ★ #58104 - F102
McLaren Mercedes MP4/13 ★ #58235 - F103RS
Newman Haas K-Mart Texaco Lola T93/00 ★ #58134 - F103L
PIAA Nakajima Reynard 97D ★ #58198 - F103
Rahal-Hogan Motorola Lola T94/00 Honda ★ #58148 - F103L
Ralt RT2 Hart 420R (F2) ★ #58018 - FRP
Road Wizard F-1 ★ #58053 - FRP
Sauber C12 ★ #58130 - F103
Team Lotus 99T Honda ★ #84191 - F103
Tyrrell P34 Six Wheeler 1976 Japan GP ★ #58003 - Alloy Plate
Tyrrell P34 Six Wheeler 1976 Japan GP ★ #84111 - F103
Tyrrell P34 Six Wheeler 1976 Japan GP ★ #49154 - F103RS
Tyrrell 019 Ford ★ #58090 - F101
Vodafone McLaren Mercedes MP4-24 ★ #58475 - F104
Williams F1 BMW FW24 ★ #58303 - F201
Williams FW-07 (CS)★ #58019 - Alloy Plate
Williams FW-11B Honda F1 ★ #58069 - FRP
Williams FW14 Renault ★ #58105 - F102
Williams-Renault FW18 ★ #58179 - F103RS
Wolf-WR1 ★ #84124 - F104W

Tamiya Le Mans

Tamiya Le Mans:

Tamiya Le Mans Car
Tamiya F1 Chassis

Tamiya F1/F2/Le Mans Chassis Types:

Tamiya F1










USA

F1 (Formula One) Cars: For Sale in the USA






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General Information and Advice

   For those starting in Radio Controlled Racing, here are a few Hints and Tips: Firstly, buy a Kit not an RTR. That way, if something breaks you will have some idea how to fix it.

   Radio Controlled Model Cars are very fragile and easily broken. The main parts to protect are the Front Wishbones, Suspension Shock Towers, Dampers, Hub Carriers, Kingpins, Uprights and Toe in Blocks, so make sure you have a good strong front bumper and Lexan or Fiberglas Body Shell, and if available for your model, a protective under tray, to prevent grit and dust getting into any moving parts.

   The Steering Servo is also a weakness in high speed crash situations, so get yourself some good strong Servo Mount and Servo Saver. Also I would recommend Titanium Shafts, Turnbuckles, Tie Rods and pivot/steering shafts and if available for your model, lightweight Titanium Drive shafts, dog bones and CVD (Constant Velocity Drives). The standard steel types are far too easily bent.

   Gearing is another problem area on RC model cars. Head on collisions can easily break off gear teeth on Nylon/Plastic Spur Gears, and even Bevel Gears inside the Gearbox. Heavy impacts can also loosen nuts and self taping screws that hold the Motor in Position, allowing the Pinion Gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops of the teeth on your Spur Gear. To avoid this to some degree, fit locking nuts, and a new motor mount from time to time, so the self taping screws that hold the motor in position have less chance to come loose.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Radio Controlled model car racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector becoming loose could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

   Many New car kits come with Nylon and Sintered Brass Ring type bearings. My advice is to discard these before initial installation, and buy a good Hop-up set of Shielded Steel Ball Bearings. Or if you are serious about your racing, Teflon or Ceramic Bearings.

   One final piece of advice about the Setup of your Car. Keep the Centre of Gravity as low as possible. Ride Height is all important. For On Road Drift/Touring cars the Ride Height should be no more than 5mm, for Buggys, Trucks, Truggys and Monster Trucks, as low as possible depending on the track conditions. If Body Roll is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of Stabilizers, Anti roll or Sway Bars, stiffer Tuning Springs and, or thicker Silicon Oil in the Dampers. Also find somewhere to mount the Transponder as low in the Chassis as possible.

For Car Setup Information check out our Hints and Tips page.

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★ Radio Controlled Model Accessories: ★
Gas/Nitro Engines
Nitro Engines
Bearings and Bearing Sets
Bearings
Body Shells
Body Shells
Radio Transmitters etc
Radio Equipment
Tires - Touring, Buggy, Truck, Monster Truck, Rock Crawler
Tires
Wheels/Rims - Touring, Buggy, Truck, Monster Truck, Rock Crawler
Wheels
Electronic Speed Controllers
ESC
Battery Packs
Bats + Chargers
Electric Motors
Electric Motors

Hints and Tips

Radio Gear

How to avoid Interference.


1/  The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)

2/  Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)

3/  If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.

4/  As a last resort, to protect against servo twitch, try ferrite beads. (available at Radio Shack or Maplins) These are threaded over the red, white (or yellow) and black wires of each servo.

5/  If you are using a FET Servo, the installation of a choke (a small electrical component) in the positive feed wire will smooth out any current spikes and reduce the possibility of "servo twitch".

6/  Another thing you might try is a "glitch buster" or "stutter stopper". Basically, this is a capacitor that simply plugs into your Radio Receiver and attempts to keep a level voltage supply to the Radio system.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.




On/Off Road
RC Models:

Other RC Models:

Radio Equipment:

Accessories:
Buggys

Formula One

Monster Trucks

Rock Crawlers

Touring/WRC/Drift Cars

Trucks/Truggys



Airplanes

Boats/Ships

Helicopters

Motorcycles

Submarines

Tanks



Crystal Sets

Receivers

Servos

Transmitters



Batteries

Battery Chargers

Bearings

Body Shells

Dampers (Shocks)

Electric Motors



ESC

Nitro Engines

Pinion Gears

Spur Gears

Tires

Wheels