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1/10 Scale Nitro Buggy:

Duratrax Maximum BX - DTXC0060 / DTXD65**


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History, Info and How To Set-up Tips, for the Maximum BX:

  Introduced by Duratrax in 1999, the 2WD Maximum BX Buggy, was available Pre-Built - DTXC0060 - without a radio system, or RTR - DTXD65** - with a Torq .12 engine, and AM radio system.

  The model was based on an alloy plate chassis, with a gear type differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers, slipper clutch, dogbone drive-shafts, and a full set of ball bearings.

  To race the Duratrax Maximum BX, it must be fine tuned to improve handling, provide responsive steering and give you the grip to cruise around corners at high speed, without slipping off the track. Small adjustments can make a Big difference and our step by step procedure, will guide you to the best Set-up for your individual driving style.

  Our simple guide explains "run in" and what to look for as you tune the Nitro Engine for your Maximum BX.

  Using plain language, our guide will show you how to avoid Radio interference, and Servo Twitch, by positioning your radio receiver and implementing the latest innovations. Find out how to reduce friction and improve the performance of your Duratrax Maximum BX Bearings with a few common sense hints and tips.





★ Duratrax Maximum BX ★
Duratrax Maximum BX






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Duratrax Maximum BX:
Models and Spare Parts, For Sale in the USA





Flags

★ Duratrax Maximum BX ★
Duratrax Maximum-BX

★ Duratrax Maximum BX ★
Duratrax Maximum BX

★ Duratrax Maximum BX Chassis ★
Duratrax Maximum BX Chassis

★ Duratrax Maximum BX Chassis ★
Duratrax Maximum BX Chassis


Buying a Used Duratrax Maximum BX Buggy.


   Buying a used Duratrax Maximum BX Nitro Buggy, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

   The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Duratrax website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Buggy you may discover can easily be fixed.

   When you receive your used Duratrax Buggy, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for anything broken that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten. Next, for those Duratrax models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.

   If the body shell of your Duratrax Maximum BX is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Maximum BX model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

   Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.

   If you intend to race your Maximum BX Buggy model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.

   The gearbox of your used Buggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Buggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil). Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

   Gears are a weakness on all Buggy RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

   Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.

   The Maximum BX steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver". Check out my Servo Information article.

   If body roll on your Duratrax Maximum BX is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.

   If your used Duratrax Buggy comes with plastic and sintered brass ring type bearings, check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

   Finally, good luck with your Maximum BX model and good racing.


For More on how to Setup your Buggy, check out my Hints and Tips page.


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Hints and Tips

Tire Inserts

   Once upon a time, all RC model tires were equal they were all trash. None of the old tires had any kind of internal support, because the hard compound they were made of didn't need it. But that was before the newer soft compounds were developed. These new tires were so soft that if some kind of insert was not used they would just lay flat under the weight of the car. Thus, the new science of tire inserts was born.

   The basic soft foam inserts that come with many off-road rubber tires can be in one of two types. They can be basic rings of sponge, or the cheap and nasty strips of sponge. Both will often need some work done to them before they are inserted into the tires.

   Most of the top off-road drivers will carefully trim the edges of each sponge where they make contact with the inside of the tires. The idea is to reduce the effect of any hard edge when the tire hits the ground. If this is beneficial is debatable, but those I talked to said it does improve grip when cornering.

   On-road cars on the other hand have the luxury of only having to make the choice between hard, medium and soft, molded sponge or rubber inserts that fit snugly inside the wheels and I can testify, the effect of these inserts can make a big difference on the track.

   When you get to the race track, the first thing you check is the track temperature. This gives you an insight into which tire to try first. In my hay day, I would use three compounds, soft medium and hard, each prepared, glued to the wheels with soft, medium and hard inserts, so a total of nine sets of wheels with tires and inserts. Depending on the track temperature, my first practice session would be with the medium insert, then depending on the grip I got from those, I would either stick with them or for more grip try the softer insert. If the car had too much grip and a tendency to over-steer I would move on to the harder insert. Once the right tire and insert combination is found, only then I would try other settings to improve the cars handling. Remember, one change at a time.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.







Hints and Tips

Choosing a Nitro Engine.

   Once you have made your choice of RC model, you need the right engine to get you where you want to be out in front.

   Touring Cars: Nitro powered Touring cars require a specific ability. Your first consideration should be the tail pipe. A number of models will take only a rear tail pipe configuration, but the majority will accept the more conventional side pipe.
   Beginners should consider something with a moderate amount of power and a rotary carburettor for easier controlled handling. For top level tarmac track racing or those with more experience, look for an engine with good low end torque that has a slide valve carburettor to give you fast acceleration out of the corners.

   Trucks and Monster Trucks: Unlike on road Touring Cars, Off Road Trucks and Monster Trucks don't need that bottom end torque, unless you like to do wheelies. So something less powerful with a rotary carburettor will provide you with the smooth acceleration and less wheel spin required for controlled dirt track racing.
   If tarmac is your thing, where grip is not a problem and you have the experience, a slide carburettor may suit your needs better. Tail pipe choice is generally a matter of preference. Most trucks will accept both side and rear configurations.

   Buggys: By far the most popular Off Road Nitro RC Models there is a wide choice of Buggys out there, many of which now come with engine included.
   Most Buggy engines use a slide valve carburettor, but if you are new to RC you may be better off trying a rotary carburettor. High low end engines with throw up plenty of dust but if you can't keep it on the track you are wasting your money. So something with less power may be better for you until you feel more confident.

For More Setup Information check out my Hints and Tips page.









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