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Established 1999 |
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Also For Sale: Radio Gear E.S.C Batteries Chargers El Motors Comm Lathes Ball Bearings AMB Lap Counters Body Shells Tyres Wheels Shock Absorbers |
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Electric Motors A/ The first number relates to the number of times the wires are wound round each of the 3 armature segments, the second number relates to the number of wires side by side. So a 15x2 would have 2 wires laid side by side and wrapped around each segment 15 times. Q/ What is the difference in performance between a Low Turn motor (eg 11x1) and a High Turn motor (eg 27x1)? A/ A Motor with Less Turns like an 11x1 means Less runtime, but More Power (Torque or Punch) Best for short straights, lots of corner tracks where fast acceleration is needed. (use a small pinion) Motors with More Turns like a 27x1 give you More runtime, but Less Power. So you get a smoother response and are therefore easier to drive. Better for less experienced drivers and Long straight, sweeping corner tracks. (with a large pinion) Q/ How do the number of winds effect a motor? A/ A Motor with More Winds (number of wires eg 13x5) is less demanding on the battery, and smoother in acceleration. Best for low grip, slippery tracks. A Low Wind Motor (eg 11x1) is more punchy and can be difficult to handle. Best on high grip hot weather or indoor carpet high acceleration low speed tracks. A/ On the Endbell of a Modified Motor (where the brushes fit) you will find two screws that hold the Endbell to the Can. If these screws are slackened off slightly the Endbell can then be twisted either Clockwise (Advance) or Anticlockwise (Retard). Q/ What does "Advancing" the Endbell position do? A/ Advancing the Endbell Reduces runtime, increases Punch (acceleration) and RPM to give a higher top speed. On the down side, the brushes wear faster and the increased current draw creates more arcing thus increased heat and Commutator (Comm) wear. Q/ What does "Retarding" the Endbell position do? A/ Retarding the Endbell Increases runtime, decreases Punch (acceleration) and RPM to give a lower top speed. Brush wear and Commutator (Comm) wear is reduced. A/ Basically, Hard brushes give a lower current draw, so consequently give longer run times and lower torque so less punch (acceleration) Soft Brushes on the other hand increase current draw thus give higher torque and increased acceleration. Of course the down side of this is that Soft brushes wear much faster and must be changed more often. (I change mine when they get to around 5mm) Q/ How does changing the brush spring change the motor? A/ If you fit Stiffer Brush Springs your motor will have More power at low revs, and also a lower top speed. I only ever fit stiff springs on bumpy tracks to reduce brush bounce. Weaker springs reduce power but increase RPM so give less acceleration but a higher top speed. Good for long, sweeping, smooth tracks, where you can carry good speed through the corners. 1/ For top level racing, strip, clean, skim and fit new brushes to your motor every 5 or 6 runs. And don't forget to oil the bearings with light sowing machine oil or ZX1. 2/ Never over gear your motor. Check the brushes after each run and if the ends of the brushes are blue (this means the lubrication in the brushes has been burnt away and is causing increased friction and wear on the comm.) change them straight away and either lower your gearing or fit a weaker spring. 3/ If you don't have weaker springs you can try bending a pair of stiff springs with a pair of snipe nose pliers. 4/ A cool motor is an efficient motor. Have you ever noticed that as the race nears the last minute or so your car seems to loose its punch out of the corners. Well some of this may be due to your batteries dumping (batteries loose their efficiency as they get hotter - ever heard of temperature resistance? You have now.) but your motor also looses power due to heat, as the magnets become less efficient. My best tip, and some regard as controversial, is to get yourself a can of liquid nitrogen spray (The kind of thing doctors use to freeze off warts) and lightly spray the motor innards through the endbell just before a race. But remember don't overdo this as it can cause damage. You have been warned. 5/ To increase power, reduce friction, arcing and therefore heating the motor to some degree, try a drop of ZX1 on the face of each brush before a run. The effect only lasts maybe 3 or 4 laps but it may be enough to get your nose infront |
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Bearings How to get the best out of your bearings. In this section I will endeavor to pass on a few hints and tips that (if you are serious about your racing) could just give you the edge over your competition. My own experience is in both Off and On Road, National and International Car racing, but most of these tips could be useful to all forms of RC. 1/ Shields: The main problem with shields is friction, the more you can reduce friction the more efficient the bearing, so here's a tip that does just that. Wheel Bearings always come in pairs, side by side. If you think about it the two inside shields on each bearing aren't needed, so ... remove them, using a small jewelers screwdriver ... simple, and in one fell swoop you have halved your wheel bearing friction. 2/ Cleaning: All Bearings need to be cleaned from time to time. Depending on how focused and competitive you are, this can be as often as after each meet, or once or twice a year ... For Club Meetings once or twice a year might be all you need if you are easily beating your competition, but for the BIG meets you need that extra 5% or 10% just to be up with the rest. What you need is a small glass jar, a jewelers screwdriver, an old tooth brush and some Isoproponol. Remove the shields, then drop the bearings in the jar, add some Isopropanol, pop on the lid and shake well. Empty them out, give them a good brushing and make sure they spin free then repeat the process. Clean the shields separately. Once you are satisfied, lay them on a piece of kitchen roll and allow to dry. 3/ Lubrication: The arguments I have had about what lubrication to use you wouldn't believe. Some of the top racers of my day swore they didn't use any at all, but cleaned out the original lubrication and ran them dry ... they also admitted to fitting a new set after each meeting ... well, they were getting them for free. My tip is, yes even with a new set of bearings, clean out the original lubrication (as described above) and with one shield in place use the thinnest oil you can find ... I recommend ZX1 (Zed Ex One) or sowing machine oil. Never use grease!! |
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