Team Associated RC10 B2 (1995) 9000 / 9011

   Introduced by Team Associated in 1995, the 2WD RC10 B2 (# 9000 Racer, # 9011 Sport) went on to win the 1995 IFMAR World Championships in Japan, driven by Matt Francis.

   After more than 10 years of the familiar RC10 alloy tub chassis, Associated followed the rest and went composite plastic. The B2 was produced for just two years and mint versions of the kit and car itself are now difficult to find, with a high number of models being updated to the B3, either by simply replacing the wishbones, or using one of the Associated B2 - B3 conversion kits - #9022 / #9023.

   In this series of articles I will endeavour to provide information to help identify any of the 1/10 Scale RC10 2WD series and where it sits along its evolutionary trail. With this knowledge, any RC10 owner should be able to decide if their model is just one of the many thousands that were produced, or is potentially a collectors "holy grail".

1995 RC10 B2

   Based on a molded composite plastic chassis, the 2WD RC10B2 came with coil spring over oil filled anodised dampers, a ball differential, universal joint drive-shafts (dogbones for Sport), new Stealth gearbox, turnbuckles, slipper clutch and a full set of ball bearings (bushings for Sport).

Model Versions:

• #9000 RC10B2 Racer less battery and radio
• #9011 RC10B2 Sport less motor, battery, radio and all electrical

Features:

• New molded composite chassis
• Front and rear suspension travel increased
• Front shocks lengthened
• Associated transmission with larger 2.4:1 differential
• New lightweight rear shock tower
• New universal axle design, smaller axle shaft
• New, larger, ball bearings in hub carriers
• New rear suspension arms allows wheelbase changes
• New low-profile body for the B2

1995 RC10 B2 - Box Art:

   RC10 B2 Racer Box Sides.



   RC10 B2 Chassis.



   1995 IFMAR World Champion Matt Francis.

1995 RC10 B2 Chassis:

   The all new composite plastic molded chassis.



   RC10 B2 Racer - #9000.



   RC10 B2 Sport - #9011.

1995 RC10 B2 - Bodyshell:

   The new low-profile B2 lexan bodyshell.

1995 RC10 B2 - Stealth Gearbox:

   The 2.4 ratio B2 Stealth Gearbox.



   RC10 B2 Stealth Gearbox - Ball bearings for the B2 Racer #9000, and Bushings for the B2 Sport #9011.



   The RC10 B2 Slipper Clutch.

1995 RC10 B2 - Dampers:

   RC10 B2 Racer hard anodised dampers.



   RC10 B2 Sport gold anodised dampers with black plastic caps.



   A special assembly tool was required to position the O-rings inside the dampers.



   RC10 B2 Shock Towers.

1995 RC10 B2 - Suspension Parts:

   RC10 B2 Front and Rear A-Arms (Wishbones).



   RC10 B2 Front Steering Blocks.



   RC10 B2 Front and Rear alloy plates.

1995 RC10 B2 - Wheels:

   RC10 B2 Racer (#9000) Wheels, are one piece.



   RC10 B2 Sport (#9011) Wheels, came in three pieces (#6854Y) in yellow plastic, each held togeather by three set screws.

   At present, the RC Model Manufacturers, Brands and Distributors covered by us are: ABC Hobby, Academy, Acme Racing, Agama Racing, Amewi, Ansmann Racing, ARRMA, Team Associated, Atomic RC, Axial, AYK, Bolink, BSD Racing, Capricorn, Carisma, Carson, Caster Racing, Cen, Corally, Custom Works, Durango, Duratrax, ECX - Electrix, Exceed RC, FG Modellsport, FS-Racing, FTX, Fujimi, Gmade, GS-Racing, Harm, HBX, Helion, Heng Long, Himoto Racing, Hirobo, Hitari, Hobao, Hong-Nor, Hot Bodies, HPI, HSP, Intech, Integy, Jamara, JQ Products, Kawada, Kyosho, Losi, LRP, Maisto, Mardave, Marui, Maverick, MCD Racing, Megatech, Mugen, New Bright, Nichimo, Nikko, Nkok, Ofna, Pro-Pulse, Protech, PTI, RC4WD, Redcat Racing, RJ-Speed, Robitronic, Schumacher, Seben, Serpent, Smartech, Sportwerks, Step-Up, Tamiya, Team-C Racing, Team Magic, Thunder Tiger, Tomy, Top Racing, Traxxas, Trinity, Tyco, Vaterra RC, Venom, VRX Racing, WLToys, X-Factory, Xmods, Xpress, Xray, XTM, Yankee RC, Yokomo, ZD Racing and Zipzaps.

   This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Models and Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

Information and Advice

Electronic Speed Controllers

   ESC were originally developed to be used in conjunction with brushed 27T stock and modified motors in the late 1970s, early 1980s. Compared to modern day Controllers, they were Bulky and heavy, constructed using basic resistors, rheostats, capacitors and transistors, crammed together on a simple circuit board, to provide stepped but smooth acceleration when compared to the old mechanical, servo operated sweeper Speed Controllers. An Electronic Switch to change the direction of current flow was used on some of these early ESC to give reverse operation. Although they were a vast improvement on the old mechanical speedos of the time, they were expensive, jerky to control, and prone to burn out if not carefully looked after.

   As new technology became available, improvements were slowly made, and with the introduction of the new FET (Field Effect Transistors) and some basic mass produced silicon chips, ESC were made smaller and their reliability gradually improved.

   By the mid 1990s, "regenerative breaking" was developed. This meant that energy that would have been lost slowing down the car by effectively turning the motor into a generator, was harvested and put back into the battery. This of course was long before F1 had KERS (Kinetic Energy Recovery System) and adjustable anti lock breaking was introduced.

How to Charge Rechargeable Batteries for Peak Performance

1/  All Ni-Cad Batteries have to be Discharged soon after use. This is to avoid the dreaded "Memory" effect that on subsequent re-charges can cause a momentary drop in performance during a race. A simple discharger can be made from a car 12v bulb.

2/  Try to time your charge to complete just before a race. This will ensure maximum punch and duration. If a Ni-Cad is left to cool after a charge this advantage dissipates.

3/  The higher the charge current the more Punch the Ni-Cad battery will have (up to around 8 amps), however, the downside to this is a reduction in duration and effective battery life.

4/  Ni-Cad Batteries should be left to cool for about an hour after use before recharging. This will increase the effective life of the battery.

1/  Never charge Ni-Mh batteries at a current higher than 4.5 amps. Although these batteries can give a higher voltage than Ni-Cad Batteries, they are much more sensitive and easy to damage if charged too quickly.

2/  Charging methods for Ni-Mh batteries can also be detrimental.