RC Model Tires:
Drift Car Tires
Monster Truck Tires
Rock Crawler Tires
Touring Car Tires
Hot Bodies Tires
Redcat Racing Tires
Thunder Tiger Tires
RC Model Wheels:
Drift Car Wheels
Monster Truck Wheels
Rock Crawler Wheels
Touring Car Wheels
Hot Bodies Wheels
Redcat Racing Wheels
Thunder Tiger Wheels
It Might be Tomorrow.
Or, for Common items, try a similar Model or Chassis type.
|★ Radio Controlled Model Accessories: ★|
Batteries + Chargers
Hints and Tips
All you need to know about Radio Controlled Model Tires
Rubber Tires ALWAYS should have either soft sponge or rubber inserts. They will not function as they should without them. And if you are totaly serious about your racing they should be glued to the rims.
You should also have at least three different compounds (Soft, Medium and Hard) fo varying track temperatures in On Road tarmac racing Touring cars, and varying pin sizes for carpet and of course Off Road racing Buggies.
Before mounting your Tires I would recommend asking around the more experienced racers at your local club as to what inserts they use. Even the top level racers rely on a bit of local knowledge on tracks they have never raced before.
1/ Once you have decided what inserts to use, position them inside the Tires ready to go onto the rims.
2/ You will need strong fingers to pull and manoever the Tires over the rims so you may need the help of an adult. (I would recommend NOT using metal Tire leavers or a spoon as they can not only damage the fragile plastic rims but can also put small tears in the rubber, that could cause problems later)
The techneque I recommend is to first of all hook the Tire on one side of the rim, then using the thumb and forefinger, grip the Tire and pull it upwards and over into position around the middle of the wheel, then over to its final position on the far side so that the beading is seated in the spigot. then position the near side beading in the opposite spiggot making sure the sponge (or rubber) incert is not trapped and positioned centrally.
3/ You have the option of either gluing or not gluing your tires on. If the track you race at is not too grippy you can get away with it, but on high grip tracks there is the possibility the tire might pull away from the rim and ruin your race.
My recommendation in that case is to glue.
Superglue is the thing to use. To do this carefully pull the beeding out of its seating put on a spot of glue then quickly push it back down. repeat this about 6 times around each side of the wheel.
Superglue can be dangerous, so this is best done by an adult.
Sponge Tires can be puchased either pre mounted, glued and trued on the rims or seperately. Fitting the Tires onto the rims can be messy so here are a few tips to make it a bit easier.
If you are fitting new Tires on old rims make sure the old sponge Tire is completely removed, to do this I recomend using a wood lathe and a bat or piece of wood with medium grit emery paper stuck to it ... sand paper will also work, but emery is harder wearing ... This will also be used for trueing the wheel, described later.
1/ Mount the Tires on the rims. Make sure they are reasonably tight on the rims, too loose and you might have problems.
2/ I find this to be easier if either in the lathe or on the car itself (but be carefull with that glue)
Using your thumb and forefinger, lift up the Tire off the rim, then using a small spatula or a thin piece of rigid wood or plastic dipped in glue (I recomend Evo-Stik, Impact Adhesive) slip it in the gap, making sure both the Tire and the rim are smeared. Then lower the Tire back onto the rim and press it down. Turn the Tire approximately 60 degrees and repeat.
3/ Depending on the width ot the Tire you may need to repeat the process on the inside also.
Trueing Sponge Tires is esential if you are serious about racing competatively. To do this you will need the bat or piece of wood, as described earlier and a good pair of vernear or digital calipers.
Sponge Tires will always wear unevenly, weather you race on Carpet or Tarmac, the outside wheels will always end a race smaller than the inside, so after each race I recommend swaping them over (unless u are fortunate to have a new set for each race) and dont forget to adjust the steering trim on your transmitter before the next race.
1/ Before starting check each mounted Tire for diamiter and order them smallest to largest. Start with the smallest and mount it in the lathe.
2/ Make sure you are wearing safety glasses before you start this procedure: Lay the sanding bat under the Tire so that it can be pivoted up from behind onto the Tire. Start the lathe spinning so that as you stand before the Tire it is rotating downwards. Slowly lift the bat and try to hold it ridged as it comes up against the Tire. There will be a high point on the Tire that if you hold the bat rigid enough will eventually wear down until the Tire apears completely concentric. at this point stop the lathe and measure the diameter on the inside and outside of the width. If needs be, repeat the process until satisfied.
Repeat for each Tire, mathcing them in pairs for diamiter.
If concidered necessery also trim the sides.
Hints and Tips
How to avoid Interference.
1/ The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration)
2/ Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again)
3/ If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference.
4/ As a last resort, to protect against servo twitch, try ferrite beads. (available at Radio Shack or Maplins) These are threaded over the red, white (or yellow) and black wires of each servo.
5/ If you are using a FET Servo, the installation of a choke (a small electrical component) in the positive feed wire will smooth out any current spikes and reduce the possibility of "servo twitch".
6/ Another thing you might try is a "glitch buster" or "stutter stopper". Basically, this is a capacitor that simply plugs into your Radio Receiver and attempts to keep a level voltage supply to the Radio system.
Other RC Models: